Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is my pride and joy and its time to let it go! I've owned this car for nearly 5 years. This car has been garaged everyday! Its registration has been expired in 6/8/09( Can we Re-Regestered),the Speedo is currently on 120kms, as i was only tracking this car. Its built for drifting/time attacks also. Engine has been tuned by Trent @ Status tunning, This car has been maintained very well! Its currently doing 250kws on 17psi safely on a good tune, It has no EPA or Defects car is in A1 condition and very very very clean :) Its just so hard to let go of it. Swaps also welcomed but depends what it is, GTR,Holden/Ford ute or a s15.

20k ono.

Here are my mods:

Trust Front pipe 3inch,turbodump pipe

Blitz LM intercooler

Apexi Pod Filter

Greddy Profec Spec-B II boost controller

Splitfire coil packs with 0.8mm BCP7ES

Walbro fuel pump 255l Gss-342

My stock r33 S2 Turbo highflowed by

hypergear with (ATR28 450HP CHAR using Garrett Bearings seals and collars

with ATR's 360" multiport thrust) 71mm compressor 3576 with a 63.rear housing machined

APexi Power FC

AFM z32

740CC injectors Sards

Coilovers are TIEN HA's - hieght and damper adjustable

Rear Sway Bar whiteline adjustable

5 Puk Button Clutch Exeedy

JJR Adjustable Tension Rods

JJR Strut Brace

Bride Seat with bride low max bride rial + 4 point Harness (RED) Sabelt

Engine Dampaner

Work miesters 18x9.5 -5 offset, 18x10.5 +5

JJR Pinapples blue

hicas lock bar

Nismo 2 way diff

9 Point Safety 21 Cusco Roll cage Full

800k HID kit

JVC head unit (the one with the little screen) & Sony amp

Plenty of more parts!

This car will also come with its Stock parts, Exhaust,ecu,afm,airbox and well. Panels everything that the car has, i have all the factory parts if you like.Stock cooler, everything!

More than welcome to Check my engine comppession as they are all very good! call me on 0403 608 473 located in Melbourne, Will also ship interstate as well.

here are also some pictures!

tossy.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

74621146544844728715658.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

111210.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

img0800q.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

img0882ci.jpg

geraus1.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

gerausboost.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

geraus.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

uyoung1.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

46968158157413624711425.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

47863136071598904115658.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

13236718149608186145011.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

13297518149410186164811.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Edited by geraus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/357140-r33-series-2-1996/
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hey guys car is still up for sale. Hasnt got a cage and hasnt got the rims. Selling it at a cheap price! 8k ono!!!!!!! has alot of fruit! compression test or whatever test is welcomed!

  • 2 months later...

Still got this for sale. Been sitting in storage doing nothing! Does not include Cage and Rims. As they were sold seperatly! comes with everything else!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Will get rid of this cheap! You can even do a compression test dyno test whatever! everything is very good! Good for track/curcuit!

  • 4 weeks later...

Still for sale guys! 7k ono. Im over this car need space ! sitting here doing nothing. All checks welcomed. Compression test , dyno test whatever you like. This machine is still going strong .

Thats right 7k ONO!!!!!!!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...