Jump to content
SAU Community

Display ONARUN or Not?

two40

By two40,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
Posted

let me start by saying i hate the rta.

now that i have that out of the way i need your input. do i display my plates while i'm selling them and save on the storage fees or just fork out the cash and store them at the rta. it's not really about the money as i'm going to have to pay $50 to store them or pay $50 to change them to black and whites. i ordered yellows and i'm not about to display the yellows on my car as it looks wrong.

if i display them i can at least advertise them on the car but i'm not that keen to for some reason.

what would you do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35725-display-onarun-or-not/
Share on other sites
Tosh Grand Master

Tosh

Posted
Posted

I would display them dude.... in black on white they'll be fairly inconspicuous (sp?) and may as well get them out there so people have a chance to see them which may help them in their decision to buy your plates or not.

my ¥20

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

Your Dragster.com.au and your Drags.com.au add selling them could EASILY be mis-read as NEVER DISPLAYED. That's the impression "not currently displayed" gives people.

I would however ALSO like them to be displayed on a big f'off dragster.

:)

Adrian

hawks Mentor

hawks

Posted
Posted

george, i dont know if youve checked, but you cant store them at the rta for $50

i tried to do the same with my custom plates, and you have to pay the $400 odd dollars whether you have them on your car or not, once you got them originally.

i didn't want to pay, so i handed mine in.

cheers, mark

two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
  • Author
Posted

if you want to store them at the rta you pay the $50 on top of the $400 but if you display them you only pay the $400. that's why i'm thinking of displaying them. plus, i can advertise them that way.

bit of a jip but at least it stops all the ppl that store plates simply for the purpose of selling them. it's hard enough finding a combination for custom plates so you can imagine how hard it would be if storage fees were only $50.

so when am i going to meet the beast?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...