Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK 1st thing:

Wednesday night 7:30 Morayfield - Time and area sorted (Chris will you be attending this northside meet?)

location - We doing indian brothers or fasta pasta?

Excuses

1st Q - I had a cheap FMIC on my 33 held pressure really well depends on what power you want to make if it is 200kw+ then spend the money on a good one to avoid pressure drop a FMIC doesn't really make power but it can sure as shit kill ti.

2nd Q- A boost T like the one I have in my 32 is great for starting out with and are good for making as much pressure as your stock turbo / wastegate can make, when your looking at serious numbers ( above 200kw's ) or want multiple boost settings then look at an electronic system, Note some manual ones are prone to spiking

Boiracer

Give me a ring and drop round I'll take ya for a strap in it and you can see if you like the ride of the V1's they are a shit tone better than the ones that were in it.

Everyone else

We are looking for Idea's for cruises and group events for northside so have a think about this during the week and we will have a chat about it wednesday night (locations, times, venues of interest blah blah blah)

I also have some news regarding some functions that may become available to us later this year or early next year remind me to let you all in on it on wednesday night.

Edited by RandomHero83

FMIC - The one i was looking at was is the cooling pro type 1 600 x 300 x 76 at only $400, i was going to get the blitz for 700, but my partner doesn't want too much of my tax to go onto the car (bills etc), if i can find a FMIC between 400-600 i may look into getting that and then saving for a elec boost controller at the end of the year.

@ the ideas

Ill start having a look at things we could do as a group, try get into a monthly cruise/meet up (someones place?) have a few drinks etc. If we can get this happening every month would be nice.

Then possibly something every quater of the year? My partner is interested in the drives, she just said she would feel a bit weird with a bunch of guys every weds talking about stuff she doesn't understand :P (i have explained a bit)

Joke of the week - SPAR in morayfield, (cant recall road, but off graham) A girl there was saying she knew her skylines pretty good, and was telling everyone in the store that my R33 is really a R34. My partner didn't say anything /doh. So maybe we should swap cars clint? im keen!

either or is good for me too.

Got the go ahead today for some coilovers!!! need to go for a run in your car clint to see how the V1's are. but from what ive read so far they are a good bit of kit, esp for the price.

Hoping to have it all sorted for happy laps in 2 weeks time!!

I so want to do SOMETHING to my car before happy laps. Dont want to go there and have the exact same car lol.... but i dont think funds are going to allow :(

But i do know that brakes are needing to be done.... would like to stop at turn 1!

I so want to do SOMETHING to my car before happy laps. Dont want to go there and have the exact same car lol.... but i dont think funds are going to allow :(

But i do know that brakes are needing to be done.... would like to stop at turn 1!

yeah stopping is always good. i had no drama with turn one...as i was being a little girly with my braking into it.

Turns out i got a 1-2 week wait on the coils......doubtful it will be sorted for then :(

Excuses

1st Q - I had a cheap FMIC on my 33 held pressure really well depends on what power you want to make if it is 200kw+ then spend the money on a good one to avoid pressure drop a FMIC doesn't really make power but it can sure as shit kill ti.

2nd Q- A boost T like the one I have in my 32 is great for starting out with and are good for making as much pressure as your stock turbo / wastegate can make, when your looking at serious numbers ( above 200kw's ) or want multiple boost settings then look at an electronic system, Note some manual ones are prone to spiking

Cheap coolers are a definite stay away from. If the money is spent in the right areas in the first place, then decent gains are easily achievable. There is nothing wrong with the good ol' turbosmart bleed valve. I'm running 1 on mine and don't have any issues with boost spike and run a constant 20psi, 425rwhp. Pete has somehow set it up to gradually feed as rpm increases. In my opinion there is really no need to have multiple boost settings as it can be all controlled by the right foot. The only thing that I'll be doing next, when I get a bit more HP, is get rid of the boost t and use a solenoid controlled by the wolf to have more control and stage the boost for drag use. If you use the computer to control the boost you get a nicer boost curve without massive spike like most EBC's do.

Hmm, guess i have alot to throw around to decide. Would the $700 blitz from justjap b what i am after then?

And with my front bar would i need to.cut it to fit the fmic?

Indian brothers weds night? Hopefully my cokd dissapates by 2morrow :/

Edited by Excuses

might have to talk the misses into coming but can't see it happening.

on another topic, anyone know a good performance mechanic around petrie lawnton strathpine brendale area?, i want to find a good reliable non over the top mechanic that can be trusted with my car to do some mods.

might have to talk the misses into coming but can't see it happening.

on another topic, anyone know a good performance mechanic around petrie lawnton strathpine brendale area?, i want to find a good reliable non over the top mechanic that can be trusted with my car to do some mods.

Do it Joe you know you want to, As for mechanics depends on mods as to who is good for them.

i do want to, but i'm not aloud to drive (damn boys in blue), as for mods, i'm not after crazy stupid like 1000RWHP, but am wanting to get the engine rebuilt with good forged internals, better cams, bigger turbo/injectors, ECU, pumps upgraded (whatever is needed), and of cause the handiling side of things, like coilovers, sway bars strut braces (these things will be done first before any more power is put in), and of cause the the stopping mechanisms, i believe they begin with a B :P

so yeah one that i can take to do all these sorts of things

Washed my car, think i might go and have a sook.. My front bar is looking so sad, paint cracking and coming off. sigh! Need to order the paint and get it resprayed booyea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...