Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Folks I tell you my engine used to be super smooth at 80k kms I was very proud but now :(

My bad run in of having a service at a stinking Midas I wish I never did. I am now 100% convinced that my valves need adjusting, valves are noisy when cold and as engine warms the noise almost dissapears. I have had one opinion that its normal (the mechanic agreed that there is lifter noise but to him it seemed acceptable), however this was while engine was well hot but on cold starts its down right depressing.

My belts are slipping a third time - not timing belt they think its aircon or something else. But how is it that after 3 adjustments belts squeel on cold starts, this time just chirping momentarily.

Has this got anything to do with timing being stuffed up? whatabout harmonic ballancer plays a part?

Also can this be caused by running too lean or slightly lean over some time (I run 10psi unmodded car)?

What is this kind of thing likely to cost (adjustmenent) can it be done while I wait and am I hurting my engine the way it is after about 2000kms?

If I am right I need a valve lash adjustement. If I do a valve lash adjustment can I go for say poncams while I'm at it since engine is being ripped open?

sigh... I tell you going to Midas is like going to Red Rooster instead of Nandos.. farking fark.. letting off steam ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358137-valve-clearence-r34/
Share on other sites

Ok mate dont get to stressed just yet ok...

You went to a run of the mill service center which means they probably used run of the mill Mineral oil, which is not to good for our cars...

Try changing the oil to something full synthetic or at least part synthetic that is a little lighter weight like a 10W-40 and see how that goes.... it might not clear up the noise straight away but give it a week and you will notice a difference...

As for the belts they might have used a cheap belt which has happened to me before or simply not tight enough - this is a simple fix and nothing to worry about, unless you leave it way too long and wear the belt and it breaks and wraps around things.

Let us all know how it goes after a GOOD oil change

Any fully synthetic around the 0W-40 range.. personally i run Synpower 5W-50 in my forged 30 and stock 25 Neo but I think Nissan recommends 0W-40ish or something. We don't have the extreme cold temps here so you don't need to go as thin on the cold side as they do in Japland.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...