Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

motor is a S1 stagea (non neo)

car is a s1 R33 gtst

ok so has anyone done this? if so how did you go about the oil pickup positioning?

the plan was to use my sump and bolt it onto the stag motor, but they aren't co-operating

the pickup is in the wrong spot :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358308-stagea-rb25-into-33gtst/
Share on other sites

custom pickup in the base of the pan approx 1-2 inches back from centre....tube exiting the side of the sump to a fitting (-8 or similar), then hose from there to the exhaust side of the pump where you have to remove a welch plug and tap a thread. Put a -8 or similar AN fitting in the side of the pump and join that hose. Tap a thread in the back of the pump where it normally sucks the oil in and put in a flat blocker or welch plug. DO NOT WELD IT or you will distort the pump.

Job done

sorry I forgot you are going the other way. You should be able to just make a custom pickup using 16mm stainless bends and keep it all inside the sump (if you are using the tin sump)

If you are going the other way, the external method is the only way because of the position of the driveshaft through the centre

Just gotta make sure the height of the pickup is ok and not too close to the pan floor, also not too far away. 5-10mm from the entry should be ok.

Also with the added length you may have issues with vibration in the tube so get them to re-attach the other mounting strap that is on the stag pickup. It will strengthen it

so measure the height that the current one sticks out of the block, weld it, keeping bends minimal, attach secondary strap... done...

will post results when done aight

:D

going to try leaving the stagea pickup in it's standard spot and cutting out a hole in the RWD sump's splashguard.

(providing the height of the sump's are the same and not deeper/shallower)

can anyone think of a reason why this could fail?

i'm thinking i might just cut the stagea sump and use that...

i was reading a thread about RB26's into s13's and everyone seems to just cut the 26 sump and use it, as they get the stronger sump and less hastles

as far as I can see this is exactly the same scenario.

gonna ring trent and ask him today as he has already done this on cat's race car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...