Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OP6 hiflow turbo (has OP6 printed on the rear housing) by turbologic in Wollongong, confirmed by fred himself. Still on the car, will be removed once sold. Has been on the car for over a year running 8-10psi. I pulled the intake off and found all intake fins are perfect, no chips or anything. very minimal if any shaft play, turbo still looks very clean and fresh. Welcome to come inspect or see it driving on the car

$800

will upload pics when i can

can sms 0416 129 811 for pics otherwise.

contact by phone or pm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358393-op6-hiflow-by-turbologic/
Share on other sites

for all the kids that are going to tell me they can get their's hiflow'd new for $800,do it! i just rang Fred and he charges $1400 for his hiflow's + the price of an op6 turbo.

Yea its a dirrect replacment for r33 turbo. All your water/oil lines, dump pipe, inlet, etc all line up. It is currently in my 33.

As for its potential i'd say you could make 250kw+ on an rb25 with supporting mods. I currently run it on 8psi untuned tho so i can't exactly say, but i dont think its laggy.

Ad's; yea the turbo originally came from an r34, which has an op6 rear housing ( abit larger then a 33, so slightly longer spool time but capable of more power. )

Edited by nik.

So she isnt just a rebuild its a highflowed jobbie too?

Adam

Na, it was hiflowed which uses new wheels and bearings so its actually like a rebuild just using higher flowing internals aswell, so its capable of making more power. mate made 249kw on a GCG r33 hiflow, so being an OP6 i would say its capable of just a touch more, was also told it was fitted with the highest flowing internals it could fit in an r34 turbo.

hey, interested in the turbo mate, where are you located would like to come and see.

Located in wollongong, welcome for inspection at any time. Its on the car at the moment running ( altho untuned so you cant exactly see the potential of the turbo )

For anyone interested, on an untuned setup running 8-10psi and a standard dump, it seems to boogie at 3300rpm.

Oh okay, had no idea. I'd prefer a bush bearing anyway for multiple reasons. It originally came off one of the workers at JustJap car as he was upgrading and its been on my 33 since.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW, I've aerated oil, and cams snapped. You can figure out the rest 🥲
    • Depending on the hose, sometimes engine out is the easiest option  
    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
×
×
  • Create New...