Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My name is Michael 28yoa, I don't work ATM Injured my myself pretty bad at work, I Do game console Modchips for people as a hobby at the moment, I have a trendy Mohawk hairstyle and I drive a turbo so my mates started calling me Turbomoehican.

Ive owned a small amount of vehicles. My first car was Oldman's Renault 12 tl 1972 4 sedan, I rolled it, popped the head, fried the electrical system and warped the engine block. I also sanded it back, prepped it, painted it limegreen woot, replaced floor carpet, rebuilt the engine, and fixed the electrical awesome car though had about 45kw what a powerhouse and always overheated going up steep hills. Then I got a commonwhore v6 put a chip in it and then ended up stuffing the suspension on the roads and beaches down to lower light in SA.

I got another commonwhore this time a ex-pursuit v8 vn. The guy I bought it off had a heap of suspension work done to it, chipped, shift kit, and rebuilt engine made 215rwkw not bad for a lump of scrap iron. Did all the services myself, audio install, neon light install. Then bad times hit blew up the engine tried to get it towed, ended up putting hole in fuel tank, bending rear panhard rod, fried computer and eventually it got sold for a burn-out comp car. However I must have the record for best fine ever from the Police I was 21 once! Was going to a party and had 7people in the back and two in the front passenger seat. and got fined and defected for Scrubbing rear tyres, and the car being too low. Never for the overloaded car. Then after all these shenanigans

I came to the turbo party I bought a R33 S2 Skyline Gts25t not a bad car, now after almost $20k worth of mods is quite exciting to drive. this is where i decided to actually learn about cars properly I did every Mod that I could Myself I would just find out how on Google or from forums. My skyline makes 271rwkw with boost as early as 2200rpm and full-boost by 3000rpm although its been headaches the whole way through. Ive had the heater core pop twice and fill the cabin with coolant So now im very proficient and removing dashes and installing heater cores, because i wasn't paying $2000 for a 6 hour job. Ive had turbo shit itself, warped mainfolds, ignition woes of all kinds, false knocking signals, bad O2 signals, shot clutch, Engine not put back to standard when complied, exhaust studs snapped in block, amp ignition wire fry right back to the mainloom, stock radiator had cracked plastic end tanks, pinhole leaks in coolant lines under and behind the head, MAF issues, right hand wheel scrubbing sidewall and tearing apart whilst driving very fast 263km/hr.

However I have fixed all these issues and now the car is awesome great streeter but its off to be sold.

I Own and have read about 2000 or more (lost count) HPI, drift, Hot4's, Unique cars magazines Ive spent a lot of time reading the tech sections and seeing what others have down with their rides. my skills include basic auto electronics, soldering, basic metal fabrication, welding, and pretty good with a spanner pretty mechanically minded, and i can do basic paint repairs. I know a fair bit abit about my R33 especially all the pitfalls

Hoping some will buy it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358512-hi-newbie-to-forum-not-to-skylines/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And one last super random thought, I remember when SAUNSW had a dinner with Alan Heaphy, and another with Fred Gibson there was talk of the R32 GTR cast alloy uprights failing in racing, and one of the things Fred did when they had to add weight to the vehicle was taken the failing alloy uprights, and have them made of steel. Does anyone remember back to 1990/1991/1992 and WHAT was failing in the front hubs/uprights?
    • If you truly want to know how the original failed though, was it a factory defect possibly etc, send it off for investigation. Would probably cost a shit tonne.   The ones that you need to win lotto for, unless you have a good reason for that part to be bolt on, I'd probably roll with getting a few small stitch welds carefully put in place as an extra safety factor once everything is all torqued up tight
    • Are you sure? Because I wouldn't necessarily be. Do we even know the material they've made the new uprights from?   Looking at the fractures in the earlier pics, it does to me look like both a twisting, and levering upward action doing the damage, so you're hoping for both compression, and tension. Depending on the bolts, they can stretch (even high grade bolts will) and now you're hoping for the threads themself not to stretch, as if they do, bye bye mating surfaces holding together, hello bolts now going into shear.
    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...