Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Alternative To Ball Joints, Maybe?

Stevoss
 Share

Recommended Posts

Stevoss Community Regular

Stevoss

Posted
Posted

I removed my rear hicas today and had a look at the ball joints and they were both flogged out :( but i had an idea.

Getting straight into the idea, if you look below at the silvia forum post i like that idea of completely removing the ball joint in favour of a bush, but instead of making the bracket like they have to contain the bush i want to use the original one the way it was designed so it pulls against the ball joint and is held by a nut, but make up a 3-4mm thick washer on the lathe a to sit on the far side of where the ball joint was(first pic) and have that support and retain the bush (2nd pic) then run a high tensile bolt through the bush and the standard arm and put a nut on it.

Insight and ideas welcome.

You might not understand what i am trying to get across but if i can make it up it should mean being serviceable for the cost of the bushes, compared to $100 each from just jap if they had them in stock or maybe a supplier can get them if they order them in. :closedeyes:

Good to see some guys having a go them selves here :thumbsup:

http://www.nissansil...howtopic=396207

14042009226.jpg

14042009231.jpg

Another thing was i couldn't find a supplier for an alternative after market part in aus :(

http://www.skylineow...ad.php?t=141864

1111.jpg

111111-1.jpg

other alternative is the Drift works Total HICAS Eliminator Kit or the bycas kit

Stevoss Community Regular

Stevoss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sorry for the confusion i realised they were flogged out i was installing my hicas lock bar i bought from justjap.

so i found some part #'s today and i think i am getting closer.

here is what they look like

and the genuine part # 55154-0P800 (available from just jap)

nisshicasballjoint.jpg

Another from http://www.importcar...nfo.asp?id=1744

Part # ICP1744

nissan_skyline_hicas_ball_joint.jpg

And here is some other part #'s which might be useful

Bottom ball joint lower l/h & r/h Bj492 $33.49 each (these are not the hicas ball joints they are the bottom ones)

rack end Re913

tie rod end Te926-12

left and right Rr Rack end Re858

Stevoss Community Regular

Stevoss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

adding more information to the list i got under the car and had a little measure, with the callipers. (**not sure on the accuracy until i get the old ball joints out of the housing and do a proper measure**)

ID of the ball joint housing 32.35mm

OD of the ball joint housing face(for the washer) up to 43.34 mm

Depth of the housing 35.27mm

bolt hole sizing for the ball joint in the tie rod end 10mm* roughly

i started looking for the sizes for the bushes which supposedly fit 46218(nolathane) Control arm upper 1 kit contain 4bushes

od 30.3mm id 22mm length 19mm fl/d 4mm fl/od 40mm

crushtubes t22.2 x 13.2 x 41mm

talking to my trusty machinist at work and we have some spare material lying around so i am going to give this ago and see, cant hurt :) also we are going to make the bushes out of nylon and see how they go first

Stevoss Community Regular

Stevoss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

okay just finished getting my rear end back together, ended up using 1 set of 46218(nolathane) bushes $49.43 delivered, made 4 washers 43mm diameter, 4mm thick with a 12mm centre hole. 2x 12mm bolt about 80mm long (was a spare from a old sub-frame off a commy)

steps :

make the washers

buy bush kit

car on hoist

wheels off

remove the lower bolt in the shock

(if you have extra time i say remove the whole strut)

take the nut off the end of the ball joint

bash or leaver the tie rod off the ball joint

remove the circlip on the rear of the ball joint

** gets tricky to remove the ball joint, from here on in we tried with a massive g-clamp, bashing from the rear with massive breaker bar, in the end we used the oxy and cut it out** PLEASE NOTE THE BACK OF THE JOINT WAS FULL OF AIR / GREASE COMPRESSED AND EXPLODED TAKE EXTREME CARE

clean up the area

apply a small amount of rubber grease to the bushes and place in either side of the housing

insert the crush tube

drill out the hole in the centre of the tie rod to 12mm

place washer at the rear of the bushes, closer to the front of the car

insert 12mm bolt through

line up the tierod and place over the bolt

use a small washer on the backside of the tierod

lock with nut

reconnect up the suspension and go for a wheel alignment

all up took me 7 hours and $50 in parts, waiting on the final results after the wheel alignment and to see how it feels and drives after i

trash it on the track (longevity wise). the size of the bushes was a exact fit, so much for my measuring upside down under a car skills.

Photos to come later :)

warp speed Apprentice

warp speed

Posted
Posted

The idea you have is the way to fix it.

I've been cnc machining a similar solution for a while now.

I use spherical bearings and rose joints instead of bushes though.

I'm intersted in seeing your fix to the crappy tie rod ends.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Duncan
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Duncan · Posted

      Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...