Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep!

I am over it too...house smells like shit....backyard smells worse and is soggy as f*k. Then the car is covered in mud and is nice and is all damp....so damp that even the seat belt mechanism has gone tight =/

Usually they loosen up when there damp ;)

... But seriously rain can jog on, it's wrecking my Wednesday night test and tune mid week racing fix lol

You kents and your boat comments :P

Why exactly is a 33 GTR a boat? Keeps up with a 32 in every way even tho it's heavier....and with f*kked rear shocks at the time too? Take that v-spec boy ;)

That's a bit rich, sure you had f**ked shocks at the time but your forgetting a few things

1. You have around 150 more kw then I do

2. I was driving the 32 and

3. I have never pushed the car hard once

Bro if my car was all tuned and shit I'd be there every event :P But I think certain other people on here may not be manly enough for such an outing :P

Get it fixed and tuned already!

Says the manly man who is too tired to have a beer of a Friday night :P

This ^^^^^^^

Nah man, they're tight as lol....unfortunately they don't losen up like other damp things we know of :)

What a chammy?

I was wondering where you had gotten to :D

I'm sure we've had the two up against each other in stock trim or? Or did I already have the N1s on there back in the day? I can't remember now.

You had the N1's on.

...except for at Willowbank :P

Even then I didn't push it that hard

All this talk about racing and nothing's happening LOL

When's the race on? I will come watch.

I'm also willing to bet that the old girl will keep up with the GTRs without too much difficulty should I join in.

As for the strip, I reckon she'll do a blistering 14sec pass with me behind the wheel ;)

All this talk about racing and nothing's happening LOL

When's the race on? I will come watch.

I'm also willing to bet that the old girl will keep up with the GTRs without too much difficulty should I join in.

As for the strip, I reckon she'll do a blistering 14sec pass with me behind the wheel ;)

I don't race the vspec. When I did take the vspec down to the drags I ran a blistering 14.7

Ok what have all you guys been up to. I got a pm from Tony today asking me to call him. I am not mad just annoyed that what ever you guys have done I wasn't involved

Eh? I haven't done anything bar posting in here and on TSO facebook... :(

Old girl's still out of action AFAIK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...