Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Quick rundown of my current setup

Drag orientated Street car

Rb26/30

Gt35r .82 rear

3.5 exhaust

oem rb26 cams

600x300x76 justjap cooler

- made ~350rwkw @ low 20's psi i believe. More psi dosnt make any more power.

- Valve springs seem to be in ok condition.

- Intercooler believed to be holding setup back. rumours floating around that 3"+ outlets are a must on this type of setup. Thoughts?

- Car seems to suffer from some heat soak after a drive. What can i do to combat this?

- Inlet temps sit around the 50degrees but i could be off on this. i just remember my tuner saying it was a slightly high.

- 60mm atmo screamer pipe

- Highmount turbo - possible heat radiating from exhaust side, so i had almost everything i could lay my hands on ceramic coated. Considering Turbo bag or wraping, any thoughts or advice?

- Alot of heat radiating from under the motor, in the slight direction of the inlet side. Any ideas?

My conclusion is that a bigger, more efficient intercooler that isnt blocking off air to the radiator and among other things will solve a large majority of my cooling problems. So ive finally saved up enough money to buy a pretty decent intercooler. Having a look at Plazmamans range (and also having a chat to them) they have recommened their "1400hp Race Spec 100mm intercooler"

RACE SPEC GTR / S15 / WRX / VL

RACE SPEC - PRO SERIES . Universal fit intercooler designed for the big boys who want premium quality and performance . Plazmaman intercoolers are used world wide by all the leading race teams , and their valuable feed back and data sharing with us allows us to develop our range of intercoolers further so that we can offer you the customer the best possible result for your dollar - genuine 1400hp at only 8kgs total weight . Choice of 3.5 or 4 inch outlets ..... Plazmaman guarantees this to be the best performing intercooler of its type on the world market - Plazmaman pro series .

Dimensions: 600 x 300 x 100mm

Price: $1,845.00

GTR%20017.jpgGTR%20026.jpg

I however thought to my self, 1400hp is pretty overkill for my application. My aim is to reach 400rwkw and possibly 450 on some better fuel. Taking this into consideration i had a look at their 800hp rated intercoolers.

600x300x3 inch tube and fin

ALL CHARGE AIR COOLERS ARE THE SAME?.........WRONG..The charge air cooler is by far the MOST important addition to any turbo vehicle. No matter how big your turbo , or boost level , if you can not flow and cool the charge air temp efficiently , your motor will experience detonation and not make maximum available real horsepower . NO WHAT IFS OR BUTS. Plazmaman has been at the forefront of power development in the sport compact industry for over 12 years , with customers smashing national records in all classes and forms of motor sport . Through this form of development , we have gained a wealth of knowledge in the construction of charge air coolers. Enter the ultra lightweight (5.5kgs) Plazmaman developed 600 x 300 FISION USA built unit .THESE INTERCOOLERS MAKE HORSEPOWER .All cores utilize the Plazmaman developed boundry layer air separation technique and are thermally dynamic. At Plazmaman you are treated like an individual - not a number . Each customer has a different vehicle setup , so it is only wise that we at Plazmaman carefully select a core with an internal and external construction to suit your power needs . Each individual intercooler is personally signed and numbered - OUR QUALITY GUARANTEE . End tanks are formed sheet alloy and are designed for maximum flow and even air distribution . Can be fitted with different style end tanks to suit different applications , and can be supplied in any finish specified .

Dimensions: Pro Series

Price: $875.00

LS2%20100_2545.jpgLS2%20100_2561.jpg

LS2%20100_2542.jpg

If my setup is only able to make a decent 600hp,

Will a 800hp intercooler do the same job as a 1400hp intercooler? Or will the 1400hp be even better and offer more rewards?

How does having larger outlets affect things? going larger surely means more lag? Any thoughts or ideas on what would be ideal?

Really appreciate the help guys, i believe alot of people out there may have similar issues and it would be great to get some concrete resolutions.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If there is a pressure drop turn the boost up more. lol

haha, if only everything was solved by adding more boost =[

ive been surfing the vlcalai forums for a bit and the genral opinion is that ebay stuff will work and do its job, but the highend plazmaman stuff do the job alot more efficiently. im just thinking about the extra $800 id be left with and what i can get by buying ebay stuff. its temping but really confused as to if it really will solve my problems :(

what turbo and boost were you running to make 465rwkw?

jap_muscle, have you by any chance measured the pressure drop across the intercooler?? just curious as i have pretty much exactly the same setup, and im trying to squeeze every last hp i can out of the gt35r, been contemplating the upgrade to a 100mm cooler for a while

Jarrod

I had a China spec 600x300x76 core when i was making 430rwkw with only a 2psi drop at 26.5psi.

Now have a 600x300x100 with 3inch ends. Should handle the extra air.

They are both tube and fin cores.

GT35R also.

what turbo and boost were you running to make 465rwkw?

jap_muscle, have you by any chance measured the pressure drop across the intercooler?? just curious as i have pretty much exactly the same setup, and im trying to squeeze every last hp i can out of the gt35r, been contemplating the upgrade to a 100mm cooler for a while

Jarrod

im in the exact same boat as you mate. ive been told to upgrade to a t04z or to a 1.06 but i want to get as much as i can out of the current setup before anything else. I havnt had a chance to do a pressure test but have something booked in on wed. will keep this thread updated. How much power did you make on your setup jarrod?

you could always get the 100mm cooler for extra flow.. and spend the 800$ left over on a water methanol injection kit, which will most likely help you alot more than any intercooler upgrade.

youve got a point here but i feel that it may somewhat overcomplicate things. Id just like to get the basics right first if you know what i mean.

I had a China spec 600x300x76 core when i was making 430rwkw with only a 2psi drop at 26.5psi.

Now have a 600x300x100 with 3inch ends. Should handle the extra air.

They are both tube and fin cores.

GT35R also.

ive been a bit slack in following your build buddy. Hate to be noisy but could you help a fellow gt35r user in breaking into the 400kw?

how big is your exhaust?

what manifold you using?

i remember you wanting to play with the gt35x turbos. is it s standard 35r you used with a .82 when you made the 430kw?

were you running e85 on that?

any head work? cams?

really appreciate your help man. im pulling my hair out about why my build is a little lacking :thanks:

Edited by Jap_Muscle

what turbo and boost were you running to make 465rwkw?

jap_muscle, have you by any chance measured the pressure drop across the intercooler?? just curious as i have pretty much exactly the same setup, and im trying to squeeze every last hp i can out of the gt35r, been contemplating the upgrade to a 100mm cooler for a while

Jarrod

Garrett T51r 1.05 rear and 24psi thru a C4 auto. Didnt get to run anymore boost as we were getting wheelspin on the dyno. Will be back on the rollers soon with E85 and more boost

Edited by WHITER33GTS-T

Probably. Still have the 150hp nos shot to add in for midrange. :thumbsup:

Last time I was running almost new 245/17s tyres but will run my hard worn out 18s next time. And will add a few extra straps to help hold it tight

I dont know why everyone thinks they can real off 400rwkw with a 35r on pump even with a 1.06 rear its a stretch - well it is on a proper reading dyno anyway. I would be looking at you exh back pressure before going any further.

Edited by rob82

I dont know why everyone thinks they can real off 400rwkw with a 35r on pump even with a 1.06 rear its a stretch - well it is on a proper reading dyno anyway. I would be looking at you exh back pressure before going any further.

i used to ask this quesiton alot, but there are a dozen people who have made it happen. Although talking about it is far different from actually making it happen, theres no denying that my setup is suffering from a power shortage somewhere. I guess ill find out sooner or later if its possible

i never got to make much power, i had the worse luck on the dyno, my car would run fine for months but play up on the dyno.

I made 420 hp on 16 psi low timing, moved it up to 21psi and it made 440hp at 4900 rpm with still low timing, but the run had to be cut short because the car started leaning out, that run looked like it was heading towards 460-470 easily without any timing added, we thought it should make 500hp easy and the tuner sent me home to work out the fuel issue, which after alot of head scratching i found that the alternator nut had worked itself loose.

After that i had some bad luck and broke my oil pump on the limiter, so im currently rebuilding trying to get everything right for the next attempt, my goals 400rwkw with all the extra money spent now, as well as the added poncams and methanol injection, which hopefully is enough hp for quarter mile time i want to run. Only question mark left in the car is this cheap intercooler kit i bought on ebay for like 270$ when i first got the car

Anyone know if these 100mm core coolers will swap directly with a 76mm 3"inlet n outlet styled intercooler?

Jarrod

It should swap over, cooler pipes might be a little tighter to get on.

Ive had dramas on the dyno too. 25/30 had a head rattle as it wasnt setup correct and a 26/30 that had oil cooler lines setup wrong resulting in a bent crank.

If you want more power buy my turbo setup. :whistling:

laggy with the t51r? how much power are you making at 100kmph/4000rpm?

ive also had a massive headache with controlling boost. went from a 38mm gate to a 33 and then eventually to a 60mm gate ive currently got. took a good few months to sort that out =[

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...