Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all just a quick one,long and short of it i live in vic and it looks like i might be moving to canberra soonish can anyone tell me what sort of check's they do on your car when changing over rego or is it walk in walk out type thing? it has a bit of work done to it and want to know if i'll have to strip it to stock or if i'll be ok leaving as is,any info would be great cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361498-wondering-about-rego-in-act/
Share on other sites

I bought my GTT from Vic... we have "authorised inspection stations" here which are just workshops/servos, but if your car is too modified you will have to go to the main inspection place at Dickson (aka "the pits"). It's a proper inspection place with rollers, noise level equipment etc.

The rules seem to be a bit better here than some states (we can have un-enclosed pods etc) but it's a bit hit and miss. If your car is tidy you may get away with more than if you are trying to pass something that looks like a drift pig.

What sort of mods are we talking about?

I bought my GTT from Vic... we have "authorised inspection stations" here which are just workshops/servos, but if your car is too modified you will have to go to the main inspection place at Dickson (aka "the pits"). It's a proper inspection place with rollers, noise level equipment etc.

The rules seem to be a bit better here than some states (we can have un-enclosed pods etc) but it's a bit hit and miss. If your car is tidy you may get away with more than if you are trying to pass something that looks like a drift pig.

What sort of mods are we talking about?

3 1/2 inch exhuast,pod(not in box),bov,intercooler,plazaman pleanum+90mm throttle body,microtech ecu,900 cc injectors,fuel pump+regulator,garrett turbo,boost controller a few other bits and pieces that should be ok rims,suspention ect no body kits or big wings,the thing is i can get it striped to stock here for $200 (have all the stock gear still)so not sure weather to get it done here or wing it and hope for the best cheer,another thing are there epa notices there too anyone who has been to vic should know what i'm talking about

Edited by russ123

+1 @SHELL

if its only guna cost ya $200 then id do it now and get it changed back after the rego side of things is sorted.

-exhaust needs to be <90dB @3,200-3,600rpm (depending on date of build)

- no bashed out cats or de-cat pipes (big fines)

-pod needs to be secured and have some kind of heat shielding

-bov needs to be 100% plumb back and not adjustable

-intercooler needs to be securely mounted and centre section of bumper bar cant be completely cut away

-cant have a boost controller or bigger turbo

-coilovers are legal if they are set to correct ground clearance and eyebrow heights (usually marked so they can see if they have been messed with in case of a defect etc)

-tyres need to be load rated

-wheel spacers are illegal (any kind unless its an OEM fitted track kit)

-cant have external fuel pumps and big surge tanks in your boot unless its engineered

-no drift style handbrake buttons (no spring etc)

-unsure about anti-hicas bars

-no locked diffs

-if you have braided brake lines they must be DOT and ADR approved

hope that covers enough for ya

+1 @SHELL

if its only guna cost ya $200 then id do it now and get it changed back after the rego side of things is sorted.

-exhaust needs to be <90dB @3,200-3,600rpm (depending on date of build)

- no bashed out cats or de-cat pipes (big fines)

-pod needs to be secured and have some kind of heat shielding

-bov needs to be 100% plumb back and not adjustable

-intercooler needs to be securely mounted and centre section of bumper bar cant be completely cut away

-cant have a boost controller or bigger turbo

-coilovers are legal if they are set to correct ground clearance and eyebrow heights (usually marked so they can see if they have been messed with in case of a defect etc)

-tyres need to be load rated

-wheel spacers are illegal (any kind unless its an OEM fitted track kit)

-cant have external fuel pumps and big surge tanks in your boot unless its engineered

-no drift style handbrake buttons (no spring etc)

-unsure about anti-hicas bars

-no locked diffs

-if you have braided brake lines they must be DOT and ADR approved

hope that covers enough for ya

thanks heaps guys reckon i will get it done before i head up only one thing that's sort of got me worryed the bov bit mine's a gfb 3 in 1 one it's all plumbed back but it has a plug in it that i can screw out and screw in a trumpet and can be adjusted :unsure: it's not in the same spot a stock one now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...