Jump to content
SAU Community

Cracked Coilpacks


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I am having some problems with my gtr motor and would love some help. To begin with the engine was yanked, pistons changed, rod bolts changed to arp, headgasket was the cometic superstreet hg. My engine management is power fc (got a used one from my engine builder). Head was ported and polished, tomei procams installed with tomei solid lifters, valve springs and retainers etc.. I have been having very low compression since the build, pretty much 90-95 psi across the board. Now here lies some of the other problems, the car has been mildly tuned and when I get on the car the idle becomes really rough and it takes a little while for it to clear up. I started to get compression readings of 0, 30, 90 and now 50 psi on number 4 cylinder. The other cylinders hold at 90 psi. I get no smoke so it leads me to think that the problem is in the head. I am going to be taking the motor out in a couple days to see what's going on but my new problem is now this, yesterday while driving the car it started to give me the "subaru sound" when I stopped I noticed that number 5 was not firing, I have injector pulse and the plug is wet. I also noticed the coilpack had a huge crack on it. I tried to tape it up and the replaced it with the coilpack from number 4. I also changed the plug. I cruised home and when I got home, decided to check the coilpack again, where I saw that the replaced coilpack also cracked! So now I have TWO cracked coilpacks. I have use the gtr manual to check the wiring and also the ignition relay, I ran out of time but I will be checking the power transistor when I get home. Do you think that the power fc is the problem and has anyone else had this problem? The engine is from a 96 gtr and is in a 97 240sx. Going to post a picture.

post-26402-0-77406500-1304200065_thumb.jpg

Edited by steeldawg_69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check that the coilpack cradle is sitting correctly. Also what spark plug are u using? Maybe the spark plug is too long or not completely down in the spark plug well/thread. Check this very carefully.

Does the spark plug screw all the way down?

Check the thread

As for the compression pour some oil down the bad cylinder and see if the compression test result is higher.

If not then maybe the valves arent lapped in correcty or maybe the valve is beeing held open by incorrectly fitted shims

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention that I had poured a capfull of oil in the faulty cylinder and there was no change in compression. The plugs I am using is the NGK iridium BKR8EIX. I used to use the 7 series and changed them for the colder plugs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, let us know if there is an issue with the spark plug height,

also before you pull the head off check the cam lobe to shim clearance with a feeler gauge set and see if the is insufficient clearance or if its ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok will definately do that. I checked to see if there was anything hindering the plug from going in. It went in without hassle. I just cant figure out what would make two coilpacks pop like that within 15 mins of each other. I'm going to recheck all my grounds. I almost forgot, the builder could not find my shims and he had the machine shop make some, now I'm starting to think......oh boy!

Edited by steeldawg_69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might be a dud tester.

Try another compression tester gauge.

Also make sure the throttle is completely open when cranking. Don't stop cranking until the gauge stops moving

Link to comment
Share on other sites

'Low' compression isn't a problem so much as constant compression, as mentioned in other threads and in here due to dodgy testers or badly done.

The problem is, as you have, when one or more are vastly different than the rest.

Good luck with the fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you speak to engine builder about the compression? Is it actually a problem?

You need to address the coilpack issue completely first, and only once that's done work out if you have a real problem. If it were me, i'd put it back on the dyno once the coilpack issue is fixed and see if it makes the right power. If not, ask the engine builder why you're getting those compression test results.

Big cams can effect compression results, so maybe get a leak down to back it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update............ I tested the power transistor today and it turns out number five resistance reading was off (dead short). I ordered one so now I wait. Thanks to all that answered my post, I'll keep you guys posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm struggling with a similar issue on an RB26. Make sure you know whether it's volume or resonance. Mine seemed louder when cruising compared to at idle. I downloaded a decibel meter for my phone. Take my less than scientific results with a couple grains of salt, but the decibels were the same at idle and at cruise. Mine seems to be a resonance problem. At 2500-3500 rpm, the sound is different and "louder" to my ear. I think it's vibration from the pipe, the car body, the floor or something creating tone. Anyway, consider that it may not be strictly a volume problem.
    • Does this count as a time trial as well? I got all gold in the master super licence (1 lap time trial) and received a McLaren MP4/4 for my trouble.  If anyone else has done this, did you ride the wall right around the first long right hander at Lake Louise snow track to get gold? I couldn't do it any other way... best I could do without riding the was was within 2 tenths of the gold time.
    • I definitely get the low power, sporty car to drive to smash gears but not be doing eleventy million miles an hour! It makes all the normal drives fun!   Rev match tune sounds like the funs! I didn't know the NC had a DBW throttle!   As for me, still have the Skyline, it still has the Barra in it. It's been pushed to the side of the workshop at the moment. Pretty much waiting on me finishing the wiring, and dropping new fuel lines in. Got myself an ACDC Tig end of last year so been teaching myself TIG welding to build a few things for the Skyline. The missus wrote off her GTB liberty at the end of last year, and got it back on salvage rights stupid cheap. It's also still registered, so will mean easier for me to take to the track already done most of the panel damage, just playing "clear the workshop" to make space to pull the motor and box out, fix some oil leaks, replace the clutch, and replace a few minor broken things.  Also got a Lathe at the start of the year, which is adding to the annoyance of no space, which is another reason I'm trying to build things to get more space, to get the Lathe back in a final home for it. It's a BIG lathe, can turn a 355mm diameter, and 1metre between centres... Got it at a steal! So between it and the TIG and old MIG welder, I'll be fabbing some fun little shit up But we've had a lot of shit stuff happening at home, so it's slow going getting things done. But one step at a time!
    • I love Catalunya.  Got a 1:54.632. The AMG is a hoot.
    • I hadn't got that far, my main worry was the connection to the actual calipers themselves. I'm just using new (ish) stock brake lines in the stock setup. I've just had a stud welded to the knuckle that is a little lower than the original stud (so my knuckles have two studs each side) to not have it be stretched so far in previous BBK setups, so the "block" (in the second picture) mounts a little lower for me and I hope I don't need to change anything. I may have even changed the connection to the calipers in the past and have since forgotten I did that. I may not have. Guess how I'm gonna find out. Source: hopium
×
×
  • Create New...