Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So im from the states and i put a RB25DET NEO Series II into my S13. I had to go with the greddy intake because i have a top mount turbo set up and my manifold ran right into the turbo. I have been looking up intake manifolds to trying figure out how much to sell it for and when i do the pics of the ones online dont look like the one i have. So i'm wondering if it really is a NEO DET or did someone put this on the motor at some point in its life. it did bolt up correctly no issues. Any help would be greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!!

f8066f67.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363027-what-intake-manifold-is-this-off-of/
Share on other sites

It is a RB25DET NEO mani... as for price i am not sure. As i have a RB25DET S2 R33. Google the sh*t out of it tho or check our for sale until you find some for sale. GL and sorry i cannot help more.

Neo%5B1%5D.jpg

Edited by Shazza24

It is a RB25DET NEO mani... as for price i am not sure. As i have a RB25DET S2 R33. Google the sh*t out of it tho or check our for sale until you find some for sale. GL and sorry i cannot help more.

That's what i thought. I was in a argument with some guy trying to tell me it wasn't. And ya i have googled a lot and i could never find a pic with a stock set up. they always had the Greddy manifold on or the stock one wasn't the same.

That's what i thought. I was in a argument with some guy trying to tell me it wasn't. And ya i have googled a lot and i could never find a pic with a stock set up. they always had the Greddy manifold on or the stock one wasn't the same.

Series 3 from what i can gather....

EDIT: not sure cannot gather enough evidence but have definately seen before you posted and it was in ref to NEO RB25

Edited by Shazza24

You sure it was off a DET or maybe a DE?

EDIT: Dude. You will have to wait a good 2-4 hours, until the other guys wake up. GL i'm gonna go to bed it is almost 5am here.

Edited by Shazza24
  • 3 months later...

R34 RB25DE Neo for sure, just pulled the n/a engine and the slush box outta my 4 door for a turbo and 5 speed. BIG f**kin job not helped by the fact the 1/2 cut has been scrapped now and we still need the dash loom!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...