Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I have decided on the Garrett GT2860R-5 turbos for my RB26 rebuild, but am just not sure if I should go with the "S/DiscoPotato" Version. From my very limited comprehensions of turbos, all the stats look the same except for the compressor and turbine maps which I do not understand.. Does anyone have any experience between the two? They cost the same so would going with the "S" version be a no brainer? There is also a 0.86 A/R housing option for both turbos, how would this affect performance?

Links to each turbo:

GT2860R-5

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2860R_707160_5.htm

GT2860RS-5

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT28/GT2860RS_739548_5.htm

Thanks,

Carthik

AFAIK they are the same turbo, your right on the specs aspect of it.

The differences, as mentioned, are the housings.

The disco is made for a generic application which uses hoses and clamps for its intake side, where as the -5s will literally BOLT IN to factory position on the GTR. You can litterally bolt them onto a stock car without changing a single bolt else.

Do the research first and make sure the -5s are the turbo for you, but do not go for the "disco" version as that will cost you an all out arm and a leg to get onto the car for almost zero gain.

^^ What he said, although, I have NEVER seen a 'bolt on' -7/-5/-9/-10 turbo. Yes they bolt on with minimal effort but you still have to stuff around for ages modifying the oil drain as it fouls on the comp cover bolt etc. Other than that, direct fit

Also think the disco has a larger comp cover and turbine housing so it definitely will not fit without custom manifolds

Also think the disco has a larger comp cover and turbine housing so it definitely will not fit without custom manifolds

Has a T04B comp cover and 'silvia' based turbine housing, so definitely need custom everything yea.

The direct bolt on thing is not without some stuffing around yeah.. But agreed all original items will bolt back on in the end with a little 'love'.

Has anyone actually tried the 0.86 housing option, just out of curiosity ?

Check this out....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357831-garrett-9/page__p__5720166__fromsearch__1#entry5720166

I still want to know if there really is a "S" version to the -9 tho as my supplier quoted me....

Quick response, good power plus a lil sugar on top now???.......:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...