Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, having issues with the rear end shuddering/ wobbling around in my 95 R33, I recently had a hicas lock bar put in thinking that was the problem but still does it when going over bumps or turning sharp corners sounds like the diff is locked and inside wheel is skidding a bit? Just wondering if it could be the cradle and how do I check if thats rooted? HELP

Also recently had a brand new replacement turbo put in full service and tune but when I try and boost it after about 4-5000 rpm it dies or misses and doesn't seem to have as much power as it should, I know the 33s are meant to have a standard dual boost control (boosting 5psi till 5000rpm then bout 7psi after that) but doesn't seem to be working, i've herd of guys having similar problems and it was the coil packs for them put hoping I don't have to fork out for them or something worse!!! Any help would be much appreciated, cheers confused.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363205-rear-end-shudder/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

The miss is most likely your coilpacks. If you don't want to pay for a new set, which is advisable anyway, you can remove the coilpacks and tightly wrap them in electrical tape or spray them with silicone spray. Be aware though that this is a bandaid fix. Shelling out the money for new coilpacks only has to be done once and then you're set.

As for the rear, jack up the back of it and have a good look around. At one point the rear of my car was doing very similar and when I jacked it up, I saw that the half shafts on either side were very loose. Another thing to check is after the HICAS was locked, were the wheels aligned? that could account for the squealing tyres..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
×
×
  • Create New...