Jump to content
SAU Community

Needs hands on help! - Installing SAFC & Bosch Pump?


Recommended Posts

Was wondering if there was any guru's out there that could help install my new Bosch Pump and SAFC.

I have no idea about electronics and am a tad scared to fiddle with the fuel system?

Would be more than happy to travel anywhere in Brissie or Gold Coast for some help?

NO WAY He'd kick my arse all the way from here to kingdom come! Well maybe not kick....... damn I hope I can run fast because once he catches up to me I really am going to get a whuppin!

I would definately offer to help u out mate, but im just so full on between uni and getting the car ready, pm and ill send u come helpful advice on the S-afc so u can have a crack at it, as long as u can solder its not that hard at all.

I can give you a hand also with the fuel pump as I did mine. I don't have a garage which makes it slightly more difficult, however if anybody does, and also wants to do a fuel pump change we can have a 2-for-1 day :)

Man ive got so many eletrical issues that i need fixing .. but i dont knwo anyone that can help me up here.. so .. i have to wait till august to drive it back home for my mate to look at :)

So its like 5 months of driving with no break light, 1 headlight and a half working apexi :)

Was wondering if there was any guru's out there that could help install my new Bosch Pump and SAFC.

I have no idea about electronics and am a tad scared to fiddle with the fuel system?

Would be more than happy to travel anywhere in Brissie or Gold Coast for some help?

G'day Shane...

I'll deal with your post in just a few moments... Firstly I have some island jumping ladies to deal with... :)

Yes i agree! he has helped me so much. Thanks mate

I offer to pay him or give him beer but he just likes to be gay and not accept anything :)

Pfft all lies... You were the one who showed up with 24 Red Roses when you wanted your SAFC installed... And all I wanted was a measly 6 pack... :)

lol

ill be buying him something.. regardless of what he says

cos it would be costing me atleast $100 otherwise

Knore... I think I'll call you... son of rajab of the Gutters... :)

But like I've said before, PM me when your ready to go ahead with the install... Just bring me something wet to drink!

Likes it eh, hmmmm that is the last time I ride in his car, and I thought he was just rubbing my knee for good luck, :) jk AH h AHhahah HA hAhHA h ah HAha!
And you thought the cold sweat was from the sideways action didn't ya? When all along you were just getting all squishy in your pants... :devfu:

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand back on topic....

Shane,

I'm more than happy to help out with your SAFC install... I've installed quite a few Apexi electronic devices in R33's now and I'm 100% confident I can install yours... I'll warn you now though that I'm not the quickest becuase I tend to take my time and make sure it's done properly...

Having said that, it's not that hard to do yourself with the help of these forums and the right tools and equipment but once again, I am more than happy to help... I *may* even be able to help with some mild tuning if you have a recent dyno graph with AFR's plotted and depending on the level of modification your car is at...

I've had my fuel tank open and I can confirm it is a bitch of a job to get in there... Once your in though it's all pretty simple albeit a little cramped... I haven't done a fuel pump upgrade in a R33 but I've had plenty to do with fuel pump upgrades in other cars including an RB25DET S13... Perhaps with a little help from Predator, my garage, and your car and money (:)), we'll be able to sort it out for you...

I'm pretty sure MJ (Island Girl) is thinking about getting a fuel pump soon and it's on my list of mods too but I'm not sure what the time frame will be for either of us...

There is quite a few people on here who have done the Bosch fuel pump upgrade so we should be OK in terms of finding useful info before we start...

What fuel pump are you planning on installing??

i am hoping to buy a fuel pump this week. I am thinking about installing it but im not sure on how hard it will be to do....

There is a thread somewhere on SAU detailing the procedure required for upgrading the intank pump for a R33... I'm not sure how much different the R32's are?

I saw your post re the Walbro pumps and all I've heard is that they are not capable when used at higher system pressures... IE: Forced induction with adjustable fuel pressure regulator or even the stock rising rate regulator...

Go the tried and proven Bosch setup IMO...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...