Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I noticed today morning when i parked the car, my idle was a bit high - this happened about once or two before but nothing since. On my drive home today from work, everything was fine and then my stagea started to lose acceleration pretty consistently. It happened at no particular RPM range, either on or off boost. She'll be going nicely and then it feels like i just took my foot off the accelerator, but i'm still pressing it! no squealing belts, choking or misfiring.

I'm wondering if AFM could be causing this? but i had it cleaned during my last service at xspeed and haven't really had this issue.

I have a greddy infometer plugged into the OBD port, i noticed the following the AF/C reading is showing 104% - 118% and when the drop happens it goes down to 97%. (a bit high but does anyone know if the greddy infometer 1's displayed this correctly?). I can also see voltages, but i dont know whats normal voltage for a AFM.

Don't think it could be the battery, as it didn't completely shutoff the engine. its an odd one! now i have to figure this out so i can drive to work tommorow.

does anyone have any ideas regarding the above?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363664-weird-issue-with-my-stagea/
Share on other sites

cheers for the reply shetlander, i cleaned out the AFM this morning with some contact cleaner - no protective mesh on the front and back of the AFM though, was your stag's AFM like this? parked the car and the idle was up around 1400RPM while in park. turned the engine off and back on again and it was normal (~650rpm)and didnt repeat.

however drove ok into work this morning no drop outs in acceleration, i monitored the voltages with my greddy infometer:

1.20volts (+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond off

1.31v(+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond on

peak voltage: 3.02v

ranged between 1.4-2.8v during driving.

Does anyone know if these voltages are within operational spec?

Also the infometer showed a diagnostic code of "1", but that doesnt relate to any codes that i know of. This could be a lost leader, as I dont know if the greddy infometer v1 can get the DTC fault codes from the stagea ECU. its currently set to Nissan-non obd, wont connect otherwise.

thanks

Edited by Scratch

Vacuum leak. But because your car isn't running like crap? the air is being metered. The 2 things to check are the Idle Contol Valve, and the Cold Start Valve.

Both of these valves get gummed up with crap over time causing them to stick open and cause high idle.

Search for the DIY tutorial on this forum on how to clean your AAC idle control valve. The cold start valve isn't covered in that tutorial but it would be worth cleaning as well. On the S1 I believe it is located under the intake manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...