Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I noticed today morning when i parked the car, my idle was a bit high - this happened about once or two before but nothing since. On my drive home today from work, everything was fine and then my stagea started to lose acceleration pretty consistently. It happened at no particular RPM range, either on or off boost. She'll be going nicely and then it feels like i just took my foot off the accelerator, but i'm still pressing it! no squealing belts, choking or misfiring.

I'm wondering if AFM could be causing this? but i had it cleaned during my last service at xspeed and haven't really had this issue.

I have a greddy infometer plugged into the OBD port, i noticed the following the AF/C reading is showing 104% - 118% and when the drop happens it goes down to 97%. (a bit high but does anyone know if the greddy infometer 1's displayed this correctly?). I can also see voltages, but i dont know whats normal voltage for a AFM.

Don't think it could be the battery, as it didn't completely shutoff the engine. its an odd one! now i have to figure this out so i can drive to work tommorow.

does anyone have any ideas regarding the above?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363664-weird-issue-with-my-stagea/
Share on other sites

cheers for the reply shetlander, i cleaned out the AFM this morning with some contact cleaner - no protective mesh on the front and back of the AFM though, was your stag's AFM like this? parked the car and the idle was up around 1400RPM while in park. turned the engine off and back on again and it was normal (~650rpm)and didnt repeat.

however drove ok into work this morning no drop outs in acceleration, i monitored the voltages with my greddy infometer:

1.20volts (+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond off

1.31v(+/- 0.01v) with A/Cond on

peak voltage: 3.02v

ranged between 1.4-2.8v during driving.

Does anyone know if these voltages are within operational spec?

Also the infometer showed a diagnostic code of "1", but that doesnt relate to any codes that i know of. This could be a lost leader, as I dont know if the greddy infometer v1 can get the DTC fault codes from the stagea ECU. its currently set to Nissan-non obd, wont connect otherwise.

thanks

Edited by Scratch

Vacuum leak. But because your car isn't running like crap? the air is being metered. The 2 things to check are the Idle Contol Valve, and the Cold Start Valve.

Both of these valves get gummed up with crap over time causing them to stick open and cause high idle.

Search for the DIY tutorial on this forum on how to clean your AAC idle control valve. The cold start valve isn't covered in that tutorial but it would be worth cleaning as well. On the S1 I believe it is located under the intake manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...