Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'm extending the deadline for payments for a few more days, just in case anyone else would like to join.

I have been asked if this is open to 4 door owners; Yes guys, everyone!

Please PM ASAP if you wish to join.

Cheers, Dale.

Heyyyy

Dale I think there has been a mix up with the sway bars.

(anyways I had a fat post written out but my page refreshed and lost it all before i could send /wrists so here is a quick summary)

The front sway bars I have received seem to be the front sway bars for the G37 not the V35.

My front sway bars : -

P1040088.jpg

Now here is a picture from the whiteline website of their g37 front sway bar: BNF41Z

BNF41Z.jpg

Now here is a picture from whiteline for the V35 sway bar I should have received. BNF33Z

BNF33Z.jpg

Ok so what the funny thing is on my sway bar it has a sticker of BNF33z like the sway bar above but obviously my sway bar is not the one above.

P1040090.jpg

Now to conclude, in your group buy the front swaybar code you gave us was Front; BNF35Z, now i searched all of whiteline and not one item came up with this item number. So I think whiteline has f**ked up and given you the wrong sway bars or something fishy is going on because the original price quoted from you was $320 but on whiteline the front sway bar for the v35 is $335 now. Either they sent you old stock or there is just a fat mixup. Anyone else pull up this problem that bought sway bars from you or did i pick the wrong sway bars up from you ><, hope you can get back to me soon =D

Thanksss George

George.

o shit .......... that last post was meant to be a PM......../facepalm

Jawrgy; Sorry abut the delayed reply, didn't get on the forum last night. I'll address your points individually;

1; "in your group buy the front swaybar code you gave us was Front; BNF35Z, now i searched all of whiteline and not one item came up with this item number"

100 percent my fault, that's a typo that I didn't spot; Correct Part Number is BNF33Z.

2; "Now here is a picture from whiteline for the V35 sway bar I should have received. BNF33Z"

BNF33Z.jpg

Absolutely right; however the angle that the photograph is taken also hides the detail of the bends contained in the centre section of the bar.

This picture here; post-61153-0-36309100-1307737713_thumb.jpg and more specifically this one; post-61153-0-84845900-1307737870_thumb.jpg

are probably better at demonstrating the true shape of the V35/Z33 Front Sway Bar, and the reason for the particular shape.

Both of these images were found in Google Images by typing "V35 Sway Bar"

I commend you for doing a bit of dectective work before panicking, and your panic is understandable. I hope the pics will put your mind at ease.

If necessary, I can meet up with you over the long weekend; we'll remove the undertray from you car, and confirm the fit.(I just need somewhere flat to lay my extended ramps.)

3; "So I think whiteline has f**ked up and given you the wrong sway bars or something fishy is going on because the original price quoted from you was $320 but on whiteline the front sway bar for the v35 is $335 now."

I don't believe there's been a mix up; but I'll happily explain the price hike; I have a great relationship with my supplier, (who; I might add, is a great guy) and that relationship allows me to purchase at excellent prices. This then allows me to pass those savings on to you. Surely you would be happy with that kind of saving?

If anyone has an issue with fitment or quality; please let me know, I can be contacted on 0410 691143.

I trust this clears up any concerns about the Group Buy; I really pride myself on being upfront and honest with this sort of thing, it's really important to me that you guys are happy with the end result.

Kind Regards, Dale.

Well mine is sitting at my aunts place so as im still in Bali i hope mine are ok!!!!

Can you confirm Dale if others are ok?

Everyone has a PM.:thumbsup: Enjoy your hoilday mate.:cheers:

I should have added this to my reply; :whistling:

Of course, if there is any issue with the compatibility of the Sway Bars; They will be replaced with the correct ones for no additional charge.

Regards, Dale.

I should have added this to my reply; :whistling:

Of course, if there is any issue with the compatibility of the Sway Bars; They will be replaced with the correct ones for no additional charge.

Regards, Dale.

Heyyyy

Im happy with that. I did a bit more searches and the hotchkins that Im getting in are the exact same shape as the ones from whiteline. Its just the picture for the BNF33Z is very deceiving from the whiteline website.

BNF33Z.jpg

Thanks for the quick and speedy reply Dale and 10/10 service, Very Happy =D

Edited by jawrgy
  • 1 month later...

So..... wondering how everyone went with their Sway Bar setup with these whiteline bars, mine will be going on soon and keen to hear your feedback.

Which settings did you use?did you like the improvement?

Cheers

J

So..... wondering how everyone went with their Sway Bar setup with these whiteline bars, mine will be going on soon and keen to hear your feedback.

Which settings did you use?did you like the improvement?

Cheers

J

Hey mellow man, mine are amazing, i used medium setting in the back, soft in the front. Took me 3hrs to install as i too my time. Most of it was jacking the car up and placing stands..

They have not only improved braking but handling is so much better, friends following me though mountains say car has no body roll and just sits so nicely on the road!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...