Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hay guys was going to suggest if a sticky that runs along the lines of power results but to exact mod parts .... with before after dyno or just a feel or 0 to 60 or 100 time whatever the postie is able to get

EXAMPLE

Part : apexi pod

Car 34 25gt

Power result. 89kw before 91 after

and / or 0 - 100 = .5 second faster

and / or =ect ect

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364209-sticky-suggestion/
Share on other sites

it's only really valid if the before dyno run was done imediately before the mod was done, without the car being driven off the dyno and if both before and after dyno runs are done within a few minutes of each other so the weather doesn't change much.

it's only really valid if the before dyno run was done imediately before the mod was done, without the car being driven off the dyno and if both before and after dyno runs are done within a few minutes of each other so the weather doesn't change much.

Even then it's not really valid... At dyno competitions where cars are doing 3 straight back-to-back runs, I've seen big differences in the number each time. Last time dyno comp I was in, my car made 229rwhp first run, 244.6rwhp 2nd run, and 238rwhp last run. Nothing changed between each run, still saw different numbers.

Personally I take dyno readings with a pinch of salt, they are a tuning tool not a comparison device. Like using a hammer as a ruler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...