Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m upgrading the fuel pump in my R32 GTR and would like some feedback please on possible options (I’ve already searched and read SAU extensively and don’t think the popular Bosch 044 pump option is for me). I need something that:

is quiet

will support around 280 4wkw

is dedicated/designed as an in tank pump

uses the existing wiring safely ie doesn’t require extra electrical circuits

will drop-in without fitting other than straight r&r

Options so far appear to be:

1. R33 GTR. A source has indicated that the R33 GTR pump outflows the R32 GTR pump. This would be ideal if it’s true (I’m sceptical) and it’s a drop in fit. Can anyone shed light on this and if it is true, what is the GTR pump flow rate?

2. Nismo. Drop in fit, pricey but good.

3. Apexi. Drop in fit, discontinued but good.

4. Sard. Drop in fit, popular.

Would appreciate feedback from anyone who has first hand experience.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36454-gtr-fuel-pump-upgrade/
Share on other sites

I think you'll find when you upgrade pumps that you'll need to upgrade your wiring to the pump. Larger pumps draw more current and stock GTR wiring is often not up to the task.

I recently had a Bosch 927 (correct me if I'm wrong Dean) fitted and needed to have new wiring installed. Wasn't a big deal and cost an extra $150. We tried an 044, but it didn't fit, so we went for his baby brother. I'm running ~320rwkw, so I think it matches your needs.

Hi NRB;

I'm convinced this is a good idea.  Could I please ask how (assuming your car is an R32?) you routed the live feed, particularly the point from which the feed was taken ie battery or another point?

Thanks

Your assumption is correct. The feed was taken from the battery, and has an inline fuse. The wire (quite a thick one, dunno the gauge) runs direct to the fuel pump. I didn't install it myself, it was done by the auto electrician over the road from RacePace in Bayswater.

Nick

Sidewaymambo;

Thanks for the lead (no pun intended). It's not the physical fit that is the problem as there are a number of pumps that are 'drop in'. The issue is the ability of the standard wiring to cope with increased current loads generated by a pump that will support 300kw at the wheels.

I'm not sure what max current the standard pump draws, but it's probably a reasonable bet that any upgrade will have an increased load. The Bosch 975 draws about 10.5 amps (probably about the same as most of the aftermarket 'drop in' pumps)whereas the 044 draws about 15, which is a significant increase. The thicker wiring is just insurance for any level of upgrade.

Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...