Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m upgrading the fuel pump in my R32 GTR and would like some feedback please on possible options (I’ve already searched and read SAU extensively and don’t think the popular Bosch 044 pump option is for me). I need something that:

is quiet

will support around 280 4wkw

is dedicated/designed as an in tank pump

uses the existing wiring safely ie doesn’t require extra electrical circuits

will drop-in without fitting other than straight r&r

Options so far appear to be:

1. R33 GTR. A source has indicated that the R33 GTR pump outflows the R32 GTR pump. This would be ideal if it’s true (I’m sceptical) and it’s a drop in fit. Can anyone shed light on this and if it is true, what is the GTR pump flow rate?

2. Nismo. Drop in fit, pricey but good.

3. Apexi. Drop in fit, discontinued but good.

4. Sard. Drop in fit, popular.

Would appreciate feedback from anyone who has first hand experience.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36454-gtr-fuel-pump-upgrade/
Share on other sites

I think you'll find when you upgrade pumps that you'll need to upgrade your wiring to the pump. Larger pumps draw more current and stock GTR wiring is often not up to the task.

I recently had a Bosch 927 (correct me if I'm wrong Dean) fitted and needed to have new wiring installed. Wasn't a big deal and cost an extra $150. We tried an 044, but it didn't fit, so we went for his baby brother. I'm running ~320rwkw, so I think it matches your needs.

Hi NRB;

I'm convinced this is a good idea.  Could I please ask how (assuming your car is an R32?) you routed the live feed, particularly the point from which the feed was taken ie battery or another point?

Thanks

Your assumption is correct. The feed was taken from the battery, and has an inline fuse. The wire (quite a thick one, dunno the gauge) runs direct to the fuel pump. I didn't install it myself, it was done by the auto electrician over the road from RacePace in Bayswater.

Nick

Sidewaymambo;

Thanks for the lead (no pun intended). It's not the physical fit that is the problem as there are a number of pumps that are 'drop in'. The issue is the ability of the standard wiring to cope with increased current loads generated by a pump that will support 300kw at the wheels.

I'm not sure what max current the standard pump draws, but it's probably a reasonable bet that any upgrade will have an increased load. The Bosch 975 draws about 10.5 amps (probably about the same as most of the aftermarket 'drop in' pumps)whereas the 044 draws about 15, which is a significant increase. The thicker wiring is just insurance for any level of upgrade.

Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...