Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as of yesterday driving to work randomly the engine light, tcs and slip lights all came on, wasn't driving fast or hard

when i got to the next set of lights, i turned the car off and then on and the engine light stayed off but the other 2 came back on

so i turned the car off and on again and they stayed off until this afternoon when i started the car at work and it happend a couple of times on the way home

when it happens i always have to turn the car off once and the engine light turns off and then again to get the TCS light and slip light to turn off

this has only happened since i did the plugs and oil on the weekend, i only picked the car up the weekend before and it didn't do that during last week

reading other threads i don't think this is unique to my car but i can't seem to get a straight answer from other threads

Mine does the exact same thing.

TCS and Slip still work, but the lights Stay on,

Turn the car on and about 2 minutes into driving they turn on.

My guess was the different sized rims/tyres is affecting the Computer with slip?

Could be many things. mine did the same a while back. replaced my coil packs & it was still doing it.

Mine was dying everytime those lights came on. annoying...

I took it to auto electricians & the codes came up as the afm. it was faulty...

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys I just got my r34 GTT 2000 model, its got an exhaust, pod filter and BOV, the tcs off light is on and the slip light, constantly, the car doesn't run rough or missfire although a pop here and there randomly doesn't seem as though its backfire just a pop, what could this be? Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

update to this, i finally got around to looking at this on the weekend, just loosened the coil packs off and did them up again and made sure the plugs for the loom were all in properly.

the car has never run better, revs a lot nicer and more responsive no more backfiring which was horrendous after i bought the car and got better after i changed the plugs but now gone completely so something must have not been plugged in properly

that miss still happens sometimes though, so i'm going to changed my plugs to a 0.8mm plug as i changed the plugs to 1.1mm BCP6E, and i've only had this issue since i changed plugs

other than that it must be a coilpack, but it just doesn't feel like a coil pack because it doesn't happen on boost like your typical f**ked coilpack, it usually happens sometimes when i first start the car in the morning or when i'm just cruising at 60km/h and goes away generally if i give it some revs

Edited by mystery_kid

hey guys I did the test and it came up as fault number 17 abs-tcs control unit circuit RB25DET, and in the description it says open throttle body harness? and abs-tcs control unit detects malfunction?, what could that be? what do I need to change? thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...