Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been given an amazing deal off a mate for his work XD9s. He has them on his R34 GTR and they are all 18x10 +18.

I don't care about flaring the shit out of my guards...can I make these fit my R32 gtst? dont wanna go crazy widebody kit but 50mm fibreglass guards might work

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/364603-can-i-get-these-wheels-to-fit/
Share on other sites

I think you will be able to get the rears to fit but the fronts 'may' be a problem. You might be able to squeeze them under the stock guards with a pull of the guard and about -3deg camber pending on tyre sizes.

Edited by -Jimmy-

Put my xd9s on my mates 34 gtt and they stuck out heaps, you wudnt need 50mm guards to fit 25mm would do it.

I put GTR front and rear guards on my 33 and they sit slightly in on the back and flush at the front with 275/35 tyres on rear and 265/35 on front.

But mines a Gts4t so not sure how a 32gtst would do clearing front struts

  • 2 weeks later...

I had 18x10+18 on the rear of my old HCR32 and with 245/40 tyres, all they needed was a quick guard roll and a slight flare to make it all fit. They didn't stick out too badly either.

On the fronts I used to run 18x9+20 but with 235/40 tyres and had minimal issues with tyre scraping. Not sure how you will go about fitting 18x10+18 rims to the fronts however. And especially with 265 tyres you will probably run into major guard scraping issues whilst turning or even close to full lock. You may have to go with slightly stretched tyres for better front fitment (maybe 245/40 or something) along with -2/3deg camber.

They would look seriously tough though! Post up some pics once you've fitted them.

Here's how they used to look on my 32...

post-62214-0-46605100-1306896840_thumb.jpgpost-62214-0-85446100-1306896844_thumb.jpgpost-62214-0-88515500-1306896849_thumb.jpg

I had 18x10+18 on the rear of my old HCR32 and with 245/40 tyres, all they needed was a quick guard roll and a slight flare to make it all fit. They didn't stick out too badly either.

On the fronts I used to run 18x9+20 but with 235/40 tyres and had minimal issues with tyre scraping. Not sure how you will go about fitting 18x10+18 rims to the fronts however. And especially with 265 tyres you will probably run into major guard scraping issues whilst turning or even close to full lock. You may have to go with slightly stretched tyres for better front fitment (maybe 245/40 or something) along with -2/3deg camber.

They would look seriously tough though! Post up some pics once you've fitted them.

Here's how they used to look on my 32...

post-62214-0-46605100-1306896840_thumb.jpgpost-62214-0-85446100-1306896844_thumb.jpgpost-62214-0-88515500-1306896849_thumb.jpg

looks good dude, I just gotta find some hookups in darwin ( getting posted there next)

hopefully get them fitted up beforehand

No way there gonna fit without alot of body work.. I have 9 +22 all round and even with lipped guards and camber arms up front with max camber front and rear they rub. A 10 +18 will sit out a further 17mm and 9mm less inner clearence, 17mm is a fair bit, on the rear yea it would be do able but on the front its gonna rub on everything, wont even clear the upper arms i think.

I trial fitted my old BBS 9 +35 with a 10mm slip on on the fronts before I got my new wheels and there was almost no clearance between the tyre and upper arm on the front, so another 6mm in is pushing it i think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...