Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

chrsito as others have said dont stress about the head gasket. I have the same turbo just externally gated on a high comp motor (193,xxx) with standard everything internally and im on 18psi... gets some hair on the goulies and get the power up:)

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got a Garret GT3071 (smaller than the 3076)on my R34, and I get 260rwKW at only 16PSI, and the response is just as good as the factory turbo. Next I'll be putting the boost up to 18PSI with the hope of getting about 280rwKW.

Paul

just as good as factory? all in under 3k?

Edited by Mattw_83

Asking if it is all in by 3k I am assuming you mean is it on full song by then. Meaning full boost, peak potential for flow, etc etc etc etc.

Consider for yourself, how can something that is going to be maxed out by 3000 RPM going to be good over the range? Well, its not really.. That's why we all bin the bloody thing. I binned the whole anchor of a motor to be honest, and that chewing gum gearbox.

Now if you consider a turbo with a higher flow potential could get you better power up top, all you need to do is have it flowing good power in other areas where you need it. That means while its not on FULL SONG or FULL BOOST by XYZ RPM its still making plenty of flow to actually make GOOD usable power.

Welcome to the wonderful world of turbo selection, and the f***ing terrible one of working with a 2.5L (to which I still have, DOH) >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
    • Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
    • When I was eyeing off the 370GT (after deciding I didn't want to spend 30-40k+ to relive my early 20s in an R33) I thought it'd be a good project to add a turbo to it. Now that I have a 370GT, and I've had a couple of chances to open it up, I'm pretty stunned by how much power it makes 🫠 Honestly, the way the VVEL opens it up, it almost feels like there's a little turbo tucked away in there somewhere. It's like Nissan looked at VTEC and said "hold my beer" 😁 Has anyone thrown a turbo into their 370Z or 370GT? Is there a conservative boost level you can run without having to upgrade the fuel system, or are bigger injectors and a bigger pump a given?
×
×
  • Create New...