Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello >_<

imported a 91 gtr a few months ago and its great no dramas at all with it.

replaced all the essintials, filters and oil ect

my question is, after reading alot of threads ect, if i should change oil pump?

since sarly R32's have an oil pump drive that is about half the width of the later gtrs

i looked around and i think a N1 oil pump is best option since car is stock and have no plans to mod it, does engine have to come out to replace oil pump ??

car has only 143xxxkms and motul 300v oil

thanks for any input

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365396-new-oil-pump-32-gtr/
Share on other sites

hello >_<

imported a 91 gtr a few months ago and its great no dramas at all with it.

replaced all the essintials, filters and oil ect

my question is, after reading alot of threads ect, if i should change oil pump?

since sarly R32's have an oil pump drive that is about half the width of the later gtrs

i looked around and i think a N1 oil pump is best option since car is stock and have no plans to mod it, does engine have to come out to replace oil pump ??

car has only 143xxxkms and motul 300v oil

thanks for any input

Given the stated kms I wouldnt be spending too much money on the motor.

Just be aware the oil pump drive in the car is not as strong as a later model. So I wouldnt go doing a heap of 8000rpm clutch dump starts or bashing the rev limiter continuously.

Have a good look at the harmonic balancer - make sure it is one piece. A failure there will result in an oil pump failure. It will be 20 years old so the rubber in them will have seen better days.

In anycase treat it like it is - a 20 year old motor.

do it with the engine in b4 its too late. its not too hard. i strongly advise u get a stronger pump than the n1 with the short oil drive tho. go nitto or some billet gears.

To do that is both engine and crankshaft out. Might as well do it when it has a planned or unplanned complete rebuild.

Edited by WHITE gtt

In my opinion, the crank collar itself (the tolerances between it and the short oil drive on the crankshaft) and how the collar is applied is more important than the pump itself.

If you are going to do an engine out, you may as well get a R33 crankshaft for the long oil drive.

thanks for all your input guys. might let it sit for now all my gauges are reading normal but every time i drive it its at the back my mind lol

next major service 150k km ill sus to see if this pump swap can be done at home, i really dont want to take engine out :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How dare you sell your unreliable Skyline and buy a reliable, Toyota/Yamaha car with a strong gearbox, torsen LSD and Toyota reliability. At least you won't need to worry about oil pumps, big catch can, oil restrictors, blowing off power steering belts, sheering off 3rd gear, failing ABS relays/pumps, etc.
    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
×
×
  • Create New...