Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Thought I might slap up my R32 for sale. It needs a little bit of work to get going properly but is cheap for whats included.

I bought the car with the intention of turning it into a track car, didn't even want an R32 but bought it as it was advertised to have had a full rebuild with receipts which I found wasn't true. Since then I have just lost interest in it and want it gone. To be honest I don't even know that much about the car! I'm currently building a track R31 so this is just sitting taking up space.

Details on the car:

1992 R32 Skyline

5 Speed Manual (Apparently R33 Box)

"Twin Plate" Clutch (Awesome Clutch. Very bitey, but doesn't make the chatter of a twin)

Front Mount Intercooler

Stainless Intercooler Piping

Full 3" Turbo back exhaust with custom dump & front pipe. (Exhaust has 1 mid muffler and end cannon. Sounds awesome and is quiet! Can get a sound clip if anyones interested)

Greddy Blow Off Valve

Gizmo Electronic Boost Controller

Apparently GTR Sway Bars (Haven't had callipers on it to check it out)

Apparently R33 Turbo (haven't been able to verify as I'm not sure on the differences between the 2)

Fuel Pressure Regulator

Lowered Springs and Shocks

Blitz Turbo Timer

Momo Steering Wheel

Momo Pedals

Interior is in awesome condition. Exterior is pretty good, but does have a few small dings and scratches. Front bar has a fair few stone chips.

Bad Points:

The car runs, but there is something wrong with it. It sounds like it is over fuelling or fouling. Drives up until about 4k where it fouls with any hard throttle. I've changed the plugs with brand new NGK ones and coilpacks with known working originals and still no avail. At the worst, a replacement RB20DET is cheap as chips anyway. More than happy for anyone who is keen to come and inspect the car. I'm getting the car looked at shortly by a mechanic so may be fiixed by then. Next thing to check is the actual ignitor but have to source one first.

The fuel tank has a small hole in it. Must be right up the top because it only came out when I fully filled the tank

Air Con Removed

No Rego

Theres a bit of road / land where the car is being garaged where legitimate potential drivers can take it for a drive to check out how it drives.

Any questions, PM me or call / text Blake on 0437480958

Price is $5000

Or Swaps for a Canon 5D Mark II + Cash!

Located in Wagga Wagga, NSW

(Only have a few photos of it. PM Me if you want some more)

184386_1869893786982_1230234672_32261661_5435672_n.jpg

183377_1869894146991_1230234672_32261662_684097_n.jpg

183800_1869894466999_1230234672_32261663_1315082_n.jpg

182761_1869894827008_1230234672_32261664_6717506_n.jpg

dsc0696f.jpg

dsc0029dp.jpg

dsc0028t.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Bump

Nope haven't had the car looked at. If I do fix the problem, the car will go up in price. It's cheap as it is with RB20's going for next to nothing in a worst case scenario

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
    • wow, a completely stock GTR! I've got to admit, I have no idea from what you are describing....do you have  any idea where the "thump" comes from, and are you certain it is the HICAS light not something else like the cat overheat light?
    • nice work, welcome to the world of CAD! fabricating accurately in 3 dimensional space is beyond me....I almost always end up making something more than once...sorry I mean I extensively use prototyping
×
×
  • Create New...