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Engine Cutting Out For A Split Second Or Completely Turns Off

kidafa

By kidafa,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

Just recently I've come into this weird issue with my car. Its a series 1 so non neo-25.

Ive had a bit of weird issue lately with my rb25 in my stagea. Ill be driving along randomly not under much load or anything and all of a sudden everything cuts out/goes real jerky like its running out of fuel or something. It tends to recover then be fine..... How ever over the past two days i actually had it completely turn off and i clutch in then clutch out and it restarts itself.

Ive consulted the car and its throwing codes for the AFM and the CAS.

I have herd about people re-soldering the joins on their AFM as the soldier tends to crack ect. Does anyone want to shed any light on this?

What about the cas? Anything I can do to it or should i try and find a replacement or what do you guys think?

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also if i was to buy another AFM and CAS how do i know what will suit my car?

Same coloured label on the afm ive herd people talk about as for crank angle sensor mines one of the metal ones so do i just need another one of them?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

is the problem that constant that you could swap out the AFM or CAS with a friends too see if its the issue, or is it intermittent and might not do it for a few days? it would be the easiest way to see which is the issue if you could. also keep in mind you may be getting a false error on one of them caused by the others issue. the AFM is the more common failure so i'd start with that, i'm sure there is a DIY on this forum on how to open the AFM and re-solder the joints. as for what AFM and what CAS to get if you feel you want to replaced them:

for the AFM all rb powered stagea's whether S1 or S2, turbo or non turbo, are the same AFM. this is also the same AFM as R34's and late model R33's, turbo and non turbo are the same in these cases too.

for the CAS, RB's only used 2 types, the aluminium mitsubishi one and the black plastic cased hitachi one.

Edited by QWK32
kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
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Yeah thats the problem the issue comes and goes so i couldnt just switch out the parts with a mate and then drive to see if it fixes it or not.... :-(

Ive got a mate with a spare r34 afm so i could give that a go.

Should i just try soldering mine first to see how i go?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Yeah thats the problem the issue comes and goes so i couldnt just switch out the parts with a mate and then drive to see if it fixes it or not.... :-(

Ive got a mate with a spare r34 afm so i could give that a go.

Should i just try soldering mine first to see how i go?

yeah that sucks, intermittent problems are always the worst to diagnose. i personally haven't done the solder trick(haven't had to) but i know a lot of people have success by doing it. its about the only thing you can try apart from replacing parts. if the CAS is rooted there not much you can do except replace it.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

just another quick thought. the one thing both the CAS and AFM have in common is the 12v power feed. i know the S1 is a bit different with its wiring but both the R34 and R33 electrical diagrams show the AFM and CAS on the same 12v power feed, and they are the only two sensors on that line. it stands to reason the S1 will be the same. might be a dodge wire or connection on the 12v feed to them, though i cant see it coming good from a clutch in->out if this was the case.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

Yeah thats the problem the issue comes and goes so i couldnt just switch out the parts with a mate and then drive to see if it fixes it or not.... :-(

Ive got a mate with a spare r34 afm so i could give that a go.

Should i just try soldering mine first to see how i go?

Soldering is relatively easy, you just need to gouge out the silicon around the cover and pop it out which is slightly fiddly but not hard. I would solder it.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

I had the same probs. Worked like a charm then would just die in the butt. It was the AFM, replaced that and good as gold. There is a thread about resoldering the AFM joints, but I had a spare so did that.

66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

So perhaps I should re solder the afm and see if i get any improvements?

Try cleaning it first with T/B cleaner & give the wires a wiggle.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I gave the AFM a good clean less than 5000k's ago with MAF cleaner, so I doubt that its just a dirty element.

I will give the wires a wiggle with it running and plugged into the laptop to see if I see any drastic changes in voltage and see how that goes :-)

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Had a bit more of a look into this issue today....

Pulled on afm and cas wiring while car was running and watching datascan on the laptop and no values were changing and car was doing nothing.

Removed AFM and cleaned it again even though it was spotless.

Removed CAS and rotated it to see if i could hear everything firing. TICK.

Had car on and pulled on the SITC and SAFC and wiggled the wires going into them with no change.

Went to remove the kickpanel that covers the ECU and the car cut out! Pulled the cover off and one of the wires coming from the ecu that gets its signal "bent" by the SITC had come out of its crimp connection..... Re crimped it cleared fault codes and car seems ALOT more lively!

Im assuming this is/was my issue. NFI how long its been like it.

Now when i think about it the car played up the most when I had a passenger and they would have been kicking the panel ect ect.

Happy ive got it sorted and guess im pretty lucky that I havnt done any damage, thinking ill book the car in for a tune soon to check that this wire wasnt loose when it was last tuned.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

good work chis thumbsup.gif you've got to be happy you didn't go out and buy any unneeded replacement parts. i had basically the same thing happen to me in my old R32 the crimp lug on the maf line to the SAFC was dodge, engine cut out and i was stuck on the side of the road. worked it out eventually, but i always solder and heat shrink any connection i do now, i don't trust those crimps.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I'm not a fan of those crimps At all. Even less now than I was before.... I've just got the female and male bullet connectors in the kick panel for piggy backs so I can revert to stock easily if I have any issues....

Saying that im very tempted to solder it all now

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