Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys as topic says I have a few parts off my old 33 that I need to get rid of.

PLEASE CALL ME ON 0401658880 AS I DO NOT COME ON HERE OFTEN ENOUGH TO CHECK UP ON POSTS.

PARTS CAN BE DELIVERED AT BUYERS EXPENSE!

PRICES ARE NOT NEGOTIABLE

1. R33 Series 1 Bonnet in Very good condition, recently cut and polished. colour code KH3 black. $150

post-47546-0-53371200-1307206603_thumb.jpg

2. R33 Series 1 Wing in perfect condition also been recently cut and polished in KH3 black. $75

post-47546-0-98319800-1307206754_thumb.jpg

3. 3 1/2" Cat back JJR exhaust in Stainless Steel. Selling as is for $200

post-47546-0-27683000-1307206863_thumb.jpg

4.Blown GCG high flow turbo with some weird mod on the exhaust housing, seals are gone, minimal shaft play.

Recently called GCG and they said worst case scenario for rebuild would be $800-$900

Asking $150

post-47546-0-52905700-1307207063_thumb.jpg

post-47546-0-67063700-1307207097_thumb.jpg

post-47546-0-97762900-1307207130_thumb.jpg

5. R33 Stock wheels with Federal 535 225/40 Rear and 205/40 Front with atleast 50% tread on all fours.

two rears are painted black selling as is for $150

Pretty good deal considering the tyres all together re worth more than the asking price.

post-47546-0-86738900-1307207333_thumb.jpg

post-47546-0-03877200-1307207490_thumb.jpg

6. R33 Space saver spare wheel..i dunno....$10

post-47546-0-68466000-1307207632_thumb.jpg

7. R33 LHS rear tail light ONLY asking $50

post-47546-0-75897300-1307207754_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366725-r33-series-1-parts-sydney-based/
Share on other sites

bonnet is on hold until payment is made. MadR33. How do you want it sent. It will be easier to organise this if you could kindly call me as stated on my first post. Thanks.

Other parts are still up for sale. I can deliver for a price if you live in sydney area.

Spare space saver wheel SOLD

Worp3d. Not too sure. I can get a quote done at work. We use startrack. But you'd might need to take into consideration of packaging and stuff that I'd have to purchase and also do myself.

I don't mind doing it as long as you're willing to pay.

I can let u know tomorrow.

Ok. Ill let u know tomorrow. Its either a yes or a no this time buddy. I can't keep cancelling other buyers.

Ill let u k ow price of delivery tomorrow round lunch time.

i put a little bit on top just for my time and effort as im not always in the office..hope thats understandable guys!

FIRST IN BEST DRESSED..I NEED IT GONE!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...