Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a few questions about my RB30 TWIN CAM;

1/ going to be running E85 and going into the 400rwkw territory looking at 2000cc injectors - bosch 2000cc's? OR Injection dynamics 2000cc's? which one should i get?

2/ looking at getting aftermarket pulleys. but i am running Rb25 Ross harmonic balancer with Rb25 power steering pump/rb25 alternator & rb26 N1 water pump. can i purchase an off the shelf pulley kit for this? are rb25/rb26 pulleys the same?

looking at this http://www.ebay.com....=item27ba6a17ee

3/ im running a GTX35 T4 1.06 turbo on 6boost mani - for my exhaust im getting made up a 3.5inch dump to 4inch cat back? is this ok or should i keep it 3.5inch the whole way?

thanks guys,

Edited by BMYHOE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366859-few-questions-about-my-rb2630-setup/
Share on other sites

1 get ID's unless you can flow match the bosch injectors. ID1000 should be ok for only 400 rw kw

2 pretty sure RB26 use different pullies to RB26. Water pump and alternator should line up at the very least but the power steering wont

3 4'' all the way minimum. Finding good 4'' mufflers is a prick as they are all expensive, if you have to step down do it after the diff. You can also split it into a duel system but

there isnt always enough room

1 get ID's unless you can flow match the bosch injectors. ID1000 should be ok for only 400 rw kw

2 pretty sure RB26 use different pullies to RB26. Water pump and alternator should line up at the very least but the power steering wont

3 4'' all the way minimum. Finding good 4'' mufflers is a prick as they are all expensive, if you have to step down do it after the diff. You can also split it into a duel system but

there isnt always enough room

yeah just after some head room on injectors for later on so ill do the id2000's

ok i might just keep with standard pulleys just in case there are any problems.

with the exhaust i was looking at getting a custom muffler made so i can keep the noise minimal. also looking at the varex muffler. - thoughts on that?

Magnaflow make 3.5 and 4" mufflers, reasonably priced from Summit. 3.5" should be more than enough for 400rwkw with an open wastegate, but that being said 4" is a more common size so the bends tend to be easier to find and for that reason cheaper as well (I had a great deal of difficulty sourcing 3.5" bends).

I had my bosch 1600's flow tested with almost no measureable difference (less than 1/3 the price of ID's). You can be reasonably sure the plenum will be responsible for much larger variations than the injectors so if this is a major concern run an ecu capable of trimming fuel delivery to individual cylinders and run an egt on each exh manifold runner.

ok good to know, with the injectors ive been doing some homework and found most guys are using the id2000 which are ment tobe good for smooth idle etc..

was thinking 3.5inch dump then 4 inch cat back.... muffler im probly leaning toward varex for noise control when needed

There is a fair difference between the ID1000 and ID2000cc injectors in terms linerarity at the on opening time required for a closed loop idle. I have tryed tuning ID2000 on an EVOX(which will have almost identicle fuel requirements as a RB30) with the factory ECU and had issue getting to a closed loop idle even wtih e85. If you have a decent ECU make sure you set your min on time to around 1.5ms and just let it go rich. Make sure you get your dwell times correct which isn't allways the same as what is supplied with the injectors.

im using a haltech p2000 the lastest one, and with the tuning im going to a repuable tunner in sydney that is know for Rb30's etc.

also with the wideband 02 sensor should i put 1 or 2 in the dump pipe?

im using a haltech p2000 the lastest one, and with the tuning im going to a repuable tunner in sydney that is know for Rb30's etc.

also with the wideband 02 sensor should i put 1 or 2 in the dump pipe?

Best tuner in the world ain't going to be able to tune around the wrong combination of parts - I would run it by him b4 buying injectors.

1 get ID's unless you can flow match the bosch injectors. ID1000 should be ok for only 400 rw kw

yeah I wouldn't be so sure. I'm using ID 2000's (which are actually 2225cc) making 400kw on E85 @ 65% duty cycle. That's on a 2.8 with twin RS's. The idle is better with these than my old Sard 800's.

Best tuner in the world ain't going to be able to tune around the wrong combination of parts - I would run it by him b4 buying injectors.

ok i will double check with them but there seems to be lots of guys using them without any dramas

yeah I wouldn't be so sure. I'm using ID 2000's (which are actually 2225cc) making 400kw on E85 @ 65% duty cycle. That's on a 2.8 with twin RS's. The idle is better with these than my old Sard 800's.

Thats shite - By my calcs for a normal engine 2000cc injectors @43pi base pressure@65% duty you should be making making 650kw @ the wheels on a dyno dynamics dyno.

You've obviously got something wrong there. BTW most engine idle better with a richer idle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...