Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, About a month or so again i replaced the upper outer control arm bushes on my R33 gtst. but i've noticed that the creaking sound is still there so i'm thinking it may be the inner bushes.

now it probably would have been a smart thing to replace those at the time i did the outer ones, but didn't think that far ahead.

my question is: does it matter if the brands are difference between bushes. The new ones that I've put in are Nolethane. and since i can't find any that suit the front inners, i was going to find some superpro to fit. can get them cheap enough.

So yea, would it matter being difference brands is what I'm asking?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367032-front-control-arm-bushes/
Share on other sites

Hey guys, About a month or so again i replaced the upper outer control arm bushes on my R33 gtst. but i've noticed that the creaking sound is still there so i'm thinking it may be the inner bushes.

now it probably would have been a smart thing to replace those at the time i did the outer ones, but didn't think that far ahead.

my question is: does it matter if the brands are difference between bushes. The new ones that I've put in are Nolethane. and since i can't find any that suit the front inners, i was going to find some superpro to fit. can get them cheap enough.

So yea, would it matter being difference brands is what I'm asking?

Cheers

The front left hand side on my r32 is creaking as well. The mechanic has diagnosed it to be the sway bar link and bushes and the D bushes that mount the sway bar. Let me know how you go fixing your problem. Where did you buy your bushes from?

only superpro makes the front inners

they are a little noisy at first but noise disappeared after a month or so, did a search and found out this happens to most people

it does seem like superpro bushes are a bit harder than others, so it will increase the harshness

but it did improve the front turn in a lot

Doesn't matter but some brands are better than others, and well...some are the same. How are they creaking? Do they just need some "lube action" or are they busted and have play?

I suppose they could just do with some lube,i thought i had packed a shiteload in when i put them in. its only a sometimes creak, normally after a long drive then coming into the driveway. like i said they were only replaced about a month of so ago. they were going good for about 3 weeks, then started creaking again.

The front left hand side on my r32 is creaking as well. The mechanic has diagnosed it to be the sway bar link and bushes and the D bushes that mount the sway bar. Let me know how you go fixing your problem. Where did you buy your bushes from?

I got the nolethane bushes from autobahn $140 from memory (front upper outer control arm)

Can get superpro from JDM obsession for $110 delivered for the inners (standard replacement)

only superpro makes the front inners

they are a little noisy at first but noise disappeared after a month or so, did a search and found out this happens to most people

it does seem like superpro bushes are a bit harder than others, so it will increase the harshness

but it did improve the front turn in a lot

Ah, cheer for the info

Edited by BstewyR33
  • 3 weeks later...

only superpro makes the front inners

they are a little noisy at first but noise disappeared after a month or so, did a search and found out this happens to most people

it does seem like superpro bushes are a bit harder than others, so it will increase the harshness

but it did improve the front turn in a lot

so the superpro front upper inner bushes are meant to make some creaking noise when you first put them in?

did you replace only the inner or both inner and outer?

so the superpro front upper inner bushes are meant to make some creaking noise when you first put them in?

did you replace only the inner or both inner and outer?

I don't think they are meant to.. My guess is that they're harder than most others out there so that's why they are more prone to making noises.

They didnt at first for a couple of days and then they started getting noisy after that which lasted for 2 mths, then the noise went away

I don't think they are meant to.. My guess is that they're harder than most others out there so that's why they are more prone to making noises.

They didnt at first for a couple of days and then they started getting noisy after that which lasted for 2 mths, then the noise went away

mine was squeaking . i changed the inner ones to the superpro ones and the noise reduced, but its still there.

now im thinking if its the outer bushes that are making the noises.

maybe i should try soapy water on the outer bushes and see if that helps.

when i said i dont think they're meant to, i meant it in a way where superpro didnt purposely make them to..

if properly greased then they shouldnt, but they do due to reasons such as formula/shape whatever reasons

mine has quietened down a lot

thing with rubber is when they're worn they dont really make any noise, but when they're worn they cause play in the arms which causes knocks, sometimes it may make squeaks because of metal rubbing on metal

yea i realised that..it could be that so happen they just seem to make a little bit of noise at first.

and also could be that it happens only in some cases..

my outer bushes look ok. not much play in them and theres no knocks, but i could be wrong.

they could look ok from the outside, but totally stuffed on the inside..

A spray with silicon spray is a good idea if they are already lubed. This can help to redistribute the lube.

If you don't have any please go and buy some as it works wonders for bush squeeks. Do not use WD40 or RP7 or anything with solvents, etc. Silicon spray is safe to use on rubber and urethane.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...