Jump to content
SAU Community

diffrence

charcoal

By charcoal,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted
yeah the engine is an rb20det.

the driveline is different, the attessa is not on the GTS4, the interior is different, really the only similarity is the fact that they are both skylines and are 4wd

That is not entirely correct, apart from the obvious engine, gearbox, guards, bodykit, intercooler, fuel pump, interior etc the R32 GTS4 has a lot of things in common to the R32 GTR. These are the things that I have noticed: CV driveshafts are the same, rear Diff cradleand K frame is identical, the layout of the drivetrain is identical, the suspension although being different spring rate and dampening rate they are identical in design, GTS4's do have the attessa system (including G-force sensors) and the two systems will work perfectly if connected together it's only the V-spec's that have the different faster attessa e-ts pro + active LSD system in the 32's, It is only the front brakes that are different on the GTS4 the front rotors and calipers are different, with a smaller in dia master cylinder and the firewall has a recess for a boosted clutch on the GTR, these are different on the GTS4/GTS-t and the boosted clutch wont fit without major modification, the fuel tank is different as the GTR one is plastic with a better baffle setup and is bigger than the GTS4/GTS-t steel one, the intercooler plumbing is different and would require a hole to be cut on the drivers side for the plenum to intercooler pipe and the pasenger side one would need to be enlarged to fit the 80mm pipe, and the brackets for the FMIC aren't there of course.

They both have the same hicas system design but the GTR has super hicas and there is 4 different wiring looms between the GTR/GTS4 models these are variables of the auto/manual with or without front active spoiler, the auto models having no clutch input on the hicas system of course. All the GTR/GTS4 models seem to have the same quick-responce ABS system as it goes hand in hand with the attessa system with the wheel speed sensors.

Nissan made a lot of things the same on the two models to save manufaturing and design costs. You only really find the difference when you have both models and you try to mix and match. There is probably more but I can't remember them all sorry.

MEGA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36723-diffrence/#findComment-733363
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...