Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-T Wreck For Sale

verger
 Share

Recommended Posts

verger Community Regular

verger

Posted
Posted

1993 Nissan Skyline GTS-t.

Had a prang in April - someone made a turn in front of me. Insurance (JCI) said that the salvage is worth $2k according to some auction place (can't remember the name, i've got it written down somewhere, will advise later) so i guess I'm looking for around that price although i am open to offers.

First and only Australian owner - purchased in 2001.

Hasn't seen much driving in the last 3 years.

Windows are tinted to darkest legal tint - driver's side window has some scratches in the tint but the rest is good.

Serviced every 5000-8000kms. Have all service receipts since purchase.

Polyurethane bushings

Reconditioned turbo replaced when the factory ceramic turbo died - "good for 400hp" said the mechanic at the time - dunno what brand it is, but it's larger than the standard - i've only ever run the stock boost, so never got to experience the extra power... oh well...

Rims are the standard ones, but have been chromed or something by the previous owner to make them shiny and look quite nice when they're clean - i cleaned one up a bit so you can see.

Tyres are BF Goodrich 225/50 ZR 16s and have heaps of tread as i haven't done many kms on them and i'm too old to do burnouts.

Splitfire coils that haven't seen much travel at all (probably 1000 - 2000kms if that? I suppose i can check my receipts and figure it out) which i've taken out and put the standard coils back in (one of the standard coils is dodgy). I'll sell these separately.

JVC head unit. bit worse for wear and the "forward" button doesn't work, but the unit still plays CDs/MP3s and radio.

JBL 2 way 4"x6" front speakers

Kicker 3 way 7"x10" rear speakers - you don't need a subwoofer with these installed. Well, at least i didn't...

3" exhaust from the cat with 3" straight through muffler

pod filter

AFM used to be dodgy, but since been fixed - just needed to resolder a connection on it and hasn't given me a problem since i fixed it a couple of years back. (FYI, advice to anyone who has a dodgy AFM and has nasty stalling issues like i did - just unscrew and pull out the plug, re solder it and it'll be like it never happened!)

Also have a Consult Port->RS232 adapter, which helped my diagnose my AFM issue.

apart from the obvious, the passenger door and rear quarter panel is scratched/dinted, the rear bumper also has a couple of scratches/dints but most of the rest of the car is fine. I can take more photos on request.

Location is in Point Cook, Victoria.

Pics are available here - http://franksemails.com/skyline-wreck/

If you want a pic of something specific, let me know and i'll put it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367340-r32-gts-t-wreck-for-sale/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

verger Community Regular

verger

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Looking to sell the car as a whole at this point.

After 7:30-8ish on weekdays is a good time to take a look. Weekends are ok too most times depending on what i've got on. PM me if you want to arrange to take a look at it.

Edited by verger
verger Community Regular

verger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Had a query regarding fixing the AFM. Just thought i'd post details here so everyone knows. The problem that i had was that the socket's solder had broken, so they needed to be resoldered. Been a few years since i did this so my memory may be a bit scratchy :)

In the pic you can see my AFM. (1) Remove the plug from the socket, and then (2) remove the 4 screws - once you've done that you can lift the socket and it should reveal 4 or 5 long metal wires which are attached to some other part inside. The solder on my unit was quite brittle and broke off quite easily. I think i also had to remove the plate to have easy access (3 and 4) to where the wires were supposed to be soldered to (or maybe i didn't have to remove the socket at all and could get to it all from under the plate - can't recall exactly). All you need to do is resolder those wires back where they were soldered and you're done.

post-49595-0-71398600-1309752596_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • GTSBoy
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...