Jump to content
SAU Community

Which is better?


Recommended Posts

Both pretty much do the same thing. No real differance or advantage. I have installed a K&N cone type filter that is also filtered at the end (is not capped), and i personally love it. It has a loud "sucking" noise when spooling and i can hear my factory plumb-back bov through it. People have in the past asked me what type of bov i am using and are surprised when i lift up the hood to prove that it is the factory plumb-back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36751-which-is-better/#findComment-733776
Share on other sites

Both pretty much do the same thing.  No real differance or advantage.  I have installed a K&N cone type filter that is also filtered at the end (is not capped), and i personally love it.  It has a loud "sucking" noise when spooling and i can hear my factory plumb-back bov through it.  People have in the past asked me what type of bov i am using and are surprised when i lift up the hood to prove that it is the factory plumb-back.

yeah i've got an HKS pod filter. can hear the turbo and the bov venting back into intake. you could even consider just an aftermarket panel filter on your stock airbox if you don't want the sound but you'd be crazy if you didn't like woosh!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36751-which-is-better/#findComment-734098
Share on other sites

Mine is not defectable, as it is in a custom sealed box and has a 4" drain pipe feeding cool air from the front bar :D.

But you are right in saying that there is no perfomance inhancement on a lightly modified engine. I just love the sound, as it is a way to get the bov sound without fitting an illegal bov :D.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36751-which-is-better/#findComment-735435
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...