Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My series 2 auto has about 160,000 k's on the clock, and recently has developed a strange steering vibration where the steering wheel will sometimes shake very noticeably from side-side when cruising at low speed (~40km/h) around a slight left-hand corner.

I have read about this on the forums before where the issue turned out to be front driveshaft related, however my issue occurs under circumstances where I wouldn't expect the front wheels to be being driven at all.

Anyone have any ideas? I recently fitted some new tierod ends ($50 ebay items), however that was over 3 months ago and I can't feel any play in the steering (although it feels like it wanders a lot on the road sometimes).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367785-steering-vibration/
Share on other sites

hahahahahahaha am going through the same thing right now it only started after i put coilovers in and i thought while i had it all apart i would get the cvs rebooted and checked then put it all back together. The vibration was there after only on left corners so i pulled it all apart again and sent the left cv to be checked again it was ok as we were putting it all back together we noticed the tierod end was a little loose as were doing it tighter we noticed it was stuffed we got it a bit tighter and most of the vibration went away but i have got 2 genuine tierod ends on order $130 should see them on friday. Try tierod ends first.

Good suggestions guys; not happy with my new "ebay special" tie rod ends. there is a nasty clunk-clunk when I move the wheels with weight on.

Kidafa I think you're right on it there too cause it feels more like the car is "bouncing" than the steering wheel vibrating. I'll have to get under there and remove the front driveshaft.

Edited by DaveB
  • 3 weeks later...

yer i had the same prob with my s1, the right tie rod end was worn. So i replaced both of them with genuine nissan 1s cost me 221 and s1 is the same as 34GTR.

i also found out after the front drive shafts stop clicking they start to wobble so i changed both sides.

if its bouncing could be shocks. Is the car lowered?

Mine bounces and its because i have RsR springs in the front with stock shocks so it hits the bump stops.

but coilovers and sway bars are coming soon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...