Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Searched the forum found one post that was quite unrelated so I decided to post this...how do you remove them? I saw a few guides that relate to the turbo versions of the skyline and their brakes are different to NA skylines. Here are some pics:

Am I mean to unscrew screw 1, 2 or 3? And how do I get my socket wrench in the tiny gap there??

And with the disc, how do you take it off? Do I just pull or does it come off with the centre thing and 2 side holes?

This is really frustrating, someone please help

(This is a rear brake with handbrake off on an R34 non turbo

post-82259-0-39005500-1308141562_thumb.jpg

post-82259-0-65434300-1308141622_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367889-na-brake-caliper/
Share on other sites

take off '1','2',3'' and under '2' there should be be another bolt the exact same size, take that off aswell. make sure you clamp the hose that leads to '3'. If your not changing the calliper or something then just leave '3' connected.

As for the rotor, once the calliper is off, just get a decent sized hammer and give it a decent whack, emphasis on decent, on the face (around the stud bolts and centre) 'ie: in the area that u've put small cirles in', and it should eventually loosen up and u can pull it off.

pretty sure that's it from memory.

On the back of the caliper there will be two large bolts (probably 17 mm head) that you undo and then lift the caliper off complete leaving the hydrolic line in place.

Then you need to remove the brake disc/drum. This just slides off over the studs but usually with a bit of difficulty. Spray some WD40 or similar on the centre to free it up and in the small holes that you have circled in red. Then insert some 8mm bolts slowly into each of the holes and tighten them up evenly until they are pushing the disc off. This is then the fun part based on how much rust has built up in the centre of the disc will then determine how much force is required before you hear a crack as the disc is released. It is important to insert these bolts evenly so that you do not warp the disc.

Once the dics is off you should be able to replace your damaged wheel studs.

On the back of the caliper there will be two large bolts (probably 17 mm head) that you undo and then lift the caliper off complete leaving the hydrolic line in place.

Then you need to remove the brake disc/drum. This just slides off over the studs but usually with a bit of difficulty. Spray some WD40 or similar on the centre to free it up and in the small holes that you have circled in red. Then insert some 8mm bolts slowly into each of the holes and tighten them up evenly until they are pushing the disc off. This is then the fun part based on how much rust has built up in the centre of the disc will then determine how much force is required before you hear a crack as the disc is released. It is important to insert these bolts evenly so that you do not warp the disc.

Once the dics is off you should be able to replace your damaged wheel studs.

Thank you very much! I will try this today to see how it goes, removing the caliper seems to be my main concern

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...