Jump to content
SAU Community

Na Brake Caliper

Grey

By Grey,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
Posted

Searched the forum found one post that was quite unrelated so I decided to post this...how do you remove them? I saw a few guides that relate to the turbo versions of the skyline and their brakes are different to NA skylines. Here are some pics:

Am I mean to unscrew screw 1, 2 or 3? And how do I get my socket wrench in the tiny gap there??

And with the disc, how do you take it off? Do I just pull or does it come off with the centre thing and 2 side holes?

This is really frustrating, someone please help

(This is a rear brake with handbrake off on an R34 non turbo

post-82259-0-39005500-1308141562_thumb.jpg

post-82259-0-65434300-1308141622_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367889-na-brake-caliper/
Share on other sites
Shotgun! Collaborator

Shotgun!

Posted
Posted

take off '1','2',3'' and under '2' there should be be another bolt the exact same size, take that off aswell. make sure you clamp the hose that leads to '3'. If your not changing the calliper or something then just leave '3' connected.

As for the rotor, once the calliper is off, just get a decent sized hammer and give it a decent whack, emphasis on decent, on the face (around the stud bolts and centre) 'ie: in the area that u've put small cirles in', and it should eventually loosen up and u can pull it off.

pretty sure that's it from memory.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

On the back of the caliper there will be two large bolts (probably 17 mm head) that you undo and then lift the caliper off complete leaving the hydrolic line in place.

Then you need to remove the brake disc/drum. This just slides off over the studs but usually with a bit of difficulty. Spray some WD40 or similar on the centre to free it up and in the small holes that you have circled in red. Then insert some 8mm bolts slowly into each of the holes and tighten them up evenly until they are pushing the disc off. This is then the fun part based on how much rust has built up in the centre of the disc will then determine how much force is required before you hear a crack as the disc is released. It is important to insert these bolts evenly so that you do not warp the disc.

Once the dics is off you should be able to replace your damaged wheel studs.

Grey Community Regular

Grey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the back of the caliper there will be two large bolts (probably 17 mm head) that you undo and then lift the caliper off complete leaving the hydrolic line in place.

Then you need to remove the brake disc/drum. This just slides off over the studs but usually with a bit of difficulty. Spray some WD40 or similar on the centre to free it up and in the small holes that you have circled in red. Then insert some 8mm bolts slowly into each of the holes and tighten them up evenly until they are pushing the disc off. This is then the fun part based on how much rust has built up in the centre of the disc will then determine how much force is required before you hear a crack as the disc is released. It is important to insert these bolts evenly so that you do not warp the disc.

Once the dics is off you should be able to replace your damaged wheel studs.

Thank you very much! I will try this today to see how it goes, removing the caliper seems to be my main concern

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...