Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Questions

riggaP
 Share

Recommended Posts

riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
Posted

If there’s one part of the drive train that eludes me it’s the clutch. Sure it’s a device that disengages/engages the gearbox with the engine, but I've got nfi how it actually works or the terminology associated with it.

After doing a search, people have been talking about clutch plates, pressure plates, thrust bearings, # puck, cushioned buttons, complete kits, etc, and I'm wanting to know what all these things are and how the affect getting the car's power to the ground.

I'm planning to upgrade my clutch in my R33 and want to know what I'm getting before I get ripped off.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/
Share on other sites
riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers Gordon. Thats a great tute!

So theres my first paragraph solved. Now need to know what options are available to upgrade.

I'm assuming that to get better performance out of a clutch (without spending lots of money) is to upgrade the clutch plate seeing as it provides the connection with the flywheel? This would also not affect everyday drivability because the standard pressure plate and diaphragm spring have not changed?

Does the pressure plate have to be changed if upgrading the clutch plate?

This has got me thinking... I need answers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-735100
Share on other sites
Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

when you buy a clutch they come with the pressure plate as a kit... they usually come with everything needed to attach them to the flywheel. Even a thrust bearing.

My Daiken Exedy Clutch cost me $450 (exchange) delivered to my door. Its an organic clutch rated at 450hp. I fitted it myself, but most likely by the sounds of things you will need someone to install it, so around a budget of $600-$700 you might get one fitted I would assume.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-735350
Share on other sites
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

You can run the standard pressure plate with an upgraded clutch plate no probs. Though the friction material and plate configuration is only one part of the whole equation.

If you get your standard pressure plate recoed at the same time you change the clutch plate (recommended, it's only a couple of hundred bucks after all) you may even be able to get a heavier spring installed in it for not much additional cost and have a stronger overall package.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-735351
Share on other sites
riggaP Veteran

riggaP

Posted
  • Author
Posted
when you buy a clutch they come with the pressure plate as a kit

You can buy the parts seprately tho... cant you?

Your Daiken Exedy Clutch is a full replacement kit? Is it much heavier than stock? Very everyday driveable?

You can run the standard pressure plate with an upgraded clutch plate no probs. Though the friction material and plate configuration is only one part of the whole equation.

If you get your standard pressure plate recoed at the same time you change the clutch plate (recommended, it's only a couple of hundred bucks after all) you may even be able to get a heavier spring installed in it for not much additional cost and have a stronger overall package.

I'm assuming upgrading the spring and pressure plate is going to make it heavier?

My aim is to get more power to the ground on a budget whilst trying to maintain a stock feel (the car is driven everyday after all). Upgrading the whole package doesnt really appeal to me because I'm not planning to do many more mods which will lead to the stage where its required. I just want something that is going to make the car a bit stronger off the line and maintain everyday driveablility.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-737077
Share on other sites
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Yep, all parts can be bought separately.

The upgrading of the spring i'm talking about will likely only be a maximum of 30% or so using the stock pressure plate.

On my last car i actually upgraded the spring and used a stock type replacement full face clutch plate. You will maintain better driveability with this combination than with a sprung button clutch plate and a stock pressure plate for a marginal increase in pedal effort as the organic plate will have a softer take up and can be slipped like a stock clutch.

I drove the car daily in traffic with no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-737094
Share on other sites
GiJOr33 Experienced

GiJOr33

Posted
Posted

I have an OS Giken twin plate clutch in my car. Cost me $1000 second hand with 95% still on the plates. It cost me $200-$250 i think to have it fitted. I bought the thrust bearing from Nissan for $30. And quite frankly it's the best upgrade i've done to my car yet. It's still perfectly drivable, and has a slightly heavier feel to it (not overly), and once it's engaged there is no slipping what so ever!!! It sounds crazy when you have the clutch in as it has a quiet rattle to it which makes people look at you and thing "wtf is that?". I'd highly recommend one, and that's coming from a lazy driver who often doesn't concentrate on how i let the clutch out :rofl:

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-737543
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...