Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If there’s one part of the drive train that eludes me it’s the clutch. Sure it’s a device that disengages/engages the gearbox with the engine, but I've got nfi how it actually works or the terminology associated with it.

After doing a search, people have been talking about clutch plates, pressure plates, thrust bearings, # puck, cushioned buttons, complete kits, etc, and I'm wanting to know what all these things are and how the affect getting the car's power to the ground.

I'm planning to upgrade my clutch in my R33 and want to know what I'm getting before I get ripped off.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/
Share on other sites

Cheers Gordon. Thats a great tute!

So theres my first paragraph solved. Now need to know what options are available to upgrade.

I'm assuming that to get better performance out of a clutch (without spending lots of money) is to upgrade the clutch plate seeing as it provides the connection with the flywheel? This would also not affect everyday drivability because the standard pressure plate and diaphragm spring have not changed?

Does the pressure plate have to be changed if upgrading the clutch plate?

This has got me thinking... I need answers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-735100
Share on other sites

when you buy a clutch they come with the pressure plate as a kit... they usually come with everything needed to attach them to the flywheel. Even a thrust bearing.

My Daiken Exedy Clutch cost me $450 (exchange) delivered to my door. Its an organic clutch rated at 450hp. I fitted it myself, but most likely by the sounds of things you will need someone to install it, so around a budget of $600-$700 you might get one fitted I would assume.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-735350
Share on other sites

You can run the standard pressure plate with an upgraded clutch plate no probs. Though the friction material and plate configuration is only one part of the whole equation.

If you get your standard pressure plate recoed at the same time you change the clutch plate (recommended, it's only a couple of hundred bucks after all) you may even be able to get a heavier spring installed in it for not much additional cost and have a stronger overall package.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-735351
Share on other sites

when you buy a clutch they come with the pressure plate as a kit

You can buy the parts seprately tho... cant you?

Your Daiken Exedy Clutch is a full replacement kit? Is it much heavier than stock? Very everyday driveable?

You can run the standard pressure plate with an upgraded clutch plate no probs. Though the friction material and plate configuration is only one part of the whole equation.

If you get your standard pressure plate recoed at the same time you change the clutch plate (recommended, it's only a couple of hundred bucks after all) you may even be able to get a heavier spring installed in it for not much additional cost and have a stronger overall package.

I'm assuming upgrading the spring and pressure plate is going to make it heavier?

My aim is to get more power to the ground on a budget whilst trying to maintain a stock feel (the car is driven everyday after all). Upgrading the whole package doesnt really appeal to me because I'm not planning to do many more mods which will lead to the stage where its required. I just want something that is going to make the car a bit stronger off the line and maintain everyday driveablility.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-737077
Share on other sites

Yep, all parts can be bought separately.

The upgrading of the spring i'm talking about will likely only be a maximum of 30% or so using the stock pressure plate.

On my last car i actually upgraded the spring and used a stock type replacement full face clutch plate. You will maintain better driveability with this combination than with a sprung button clutch plate and a stock pressure plate for a marginal increase in pedal effort as the organic plate will have a softer take up and can be slipped like a stock clutch.

I drove the car daily in traffic with no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-737094
Share on other sites

I have an OS Giken twin plate clutch in my car. Cost me $1000 second hand with 95% still on the plates. It cost me $200-$250 i think to have it fitted. I bought the thrust bearing from Nissan for $30. And quite frankly it's the best upgrade i've done to my car yet. It's still perfectly drivable, and has a slightly heavier feel to it (not overly), and once it's engaged there is no slipping what so ever!!! It sounds crazy when you have the clutch in as it has a quiet rattle to it which makes people look at you and thing "wtf is that?". I'd highly recommend one, and that's coming from a lazy driver who often doesn't concentrate on how i let the clutch out :rofl:

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36821-clutch-questions/#findComment-737543
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...