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R32 bonnet carpet cover, in good condition $30

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R32 bash plate sits underneath car, stock, plastic $20

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R32 boot, little dent at the top, no spoiler $50 or make anoffer

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R32 3inch jasma cat back EXTREMELY QUIET, have passedroadworthy with this $350, has all heatshields and hangers in very good condition

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Stock r32 cat $50

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Stock r32 front pipe $50, have a stock dump as well $50

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Rb20 gearbox crossmember r32 $50 each, have 2 in stock

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Type m pod driver side $50

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Various clutch masters and slaves $20 each for rb20 r32

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Stock sway bar rear sway bar for r32 $20

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R32 boss kit, used to fit nardi, good condition, also comeswith stock bit to make it fit $50

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Passenger side vent in awesome condition $50

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Middle vent with plastic surround $50

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R32 passenger side control arm $50 with good ball joint

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Stock r32 steering wheel, was used to pass roadworthy $50

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Cluster type m $50

Cluster surround $30

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Rb20det stock ecu $120

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R32 stock airbox mangled but good for clearing defects $50or make an offer coems with apexi filter

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Located in north western suburbs Melbourne

Pm or call 0413 926794

Best to call, don’t have a skyline no more so don’t come onhere

safc sold

centre vent surround sold (centre vent is no longer available as i mistaked it for silvia)

exhaust sold

bash plate sold

clutch slave and master all gone

everything else available

  • 3 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
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