Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Before wasting your money just get a multimeter and test resistance between points, its not required.

+1

Best way to do it is to have someone crank the car (lots of load on the wiring) with fuel pump or injectors disconnected. Anything over 0.1 volts under these conditions can cause trouble later on.

And if you're going to, don't buy a "grounding kit" off Ebay. good 8 or 4ga wire, which is available in all kinds of pretty colours, a few eye terminals, solder and heat-shrink, and you can make up some nice looking items for less money and that are the proper length...

Jaycar also sell ready-made ground straps which will be a LOT less fiddling around than 4G/8G, and cheaper by the time you add up connectors etc.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WE3102&keywords=we31&form=KEYWORD

WE-3102: 40 Amp 250mm length with 36 x 26 strands @ 0.15 (Dia.)mm

WE-3104: 100 Amp 250mm length with 48 x 20 strands @ 0.15 (Dia.)mm

I'd be surprised if you couldn't get similar from an auto store.

Side note, solder is NOT the best way of making these connections. Solder's a poor conductor, and better reserved for building circuit boards. If you're going to go the 4G/8G route, crimp your connections. You can solder afterwards (NOT before!!) if you want but crimping provides a much stronger join mechanically, and lower resistance electrically.

Jaycar also sell ready-made ground straps which will be a LOT less fiddling around than 4G/8G, and cheaper by the time you add up connectors etc.

http://www.jaycar.co...31&form=KEYWORD

WE-3102: 40 Amp 250mm length with 36 x 26 strands @ 0.15 (Dia.)mm

WE-3104: 100 Amp 250mm length with 48 x 20 strands @ 0.15 (Dia.)mm

I'd be surprised if you couldn't get similar from an auto store.

Side note, solder is NOT the best way of making these connections. Solder's a poor conductor, and better reserved for building circuit boards. If you're going to go the 4G/8G route, crimp your connections. You can solder afterwards (NOT before!!) if you want but crimping provides a much stronger join mechanically, and lower resistance electrically.

+1

My bad. Definitely crimp the connections, then solder and heat-shrink. The solder is more there to help prevent the connection getting coroded, coming loose, or burning out...

There was an article in a street commonwhores mag I read a while ago comparing the before and after of a "Hot Earth" kit, ironic name...

Gave about 12kw peak gain and moved the power left, there was literally about 20-25 8ga cables running to all the primary bits, such as coils, fuel pump, ECU earth, MAF sensor etc...

+1

My bad. Definitely crimp the connections, then solder and heat-shrink. The solder is more there to help prevent the connection getting coroded, coming loose, or burning out...

Well.. a proper crimp is gas-tight and mechanically sound. If you have properly crimped the terminal there's no reason to solder at all, but if you've done 90% of the job then a bit of added strength from the solder might help.

Soldering certainly doesn't hurt and I've soldered after crimping myself because the gold connectors Jaycar sells for 4G/8G cable need all the mechanical help they can get. They're very soft. Better off using some stronger ones from Supercheap/Whitworths to begin with but I was lazy :P

Well.. a proper crimp is gas-tight and mechanically sound. If you have properly crimped the terminal there's no reason to solder at all, but if you've done 90% of the job then a bit of added strength from the solder might help.

Soldering certainly doesn't hurt and I've soldered after crimping myself because the gold connectors Jaycar sells for 4G/8G cable need all the mechanical help they can get. They're very soft. Better off using some stronger ones from Supercheap/Whitworths to begin with but I was lazy :P

Personally, on my own car where time/cost isn't a big issue, I cut off the plastic covers, crimp the terminals (usually narva items, seem to do the job), solder the joint, quick spray with battery-terminal protector, then heat-shrink. Not only do you get a good looking connection (compared to the tacky plastic covers), but it's also rock-solid, can't corrode, come loose, or burn out....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...