Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering, how the hell can i launch my r33, without the back wheels spinning?

Everytime i rev it to around 3-4000 rpm, and i hold the clutch, and wen the lights go greeen, i release my clutch and floor it, but then my back wheels start to spin, and the back just to sway left to right.

How can i launch without that happening bcoz itz reali annoyin wen im tryin to take off at the lights and my cars starts spinning!

So yeah any help would do thx.

Guilty, it is called throttle control mate. insetad of floring it "feed" the throttle in. ie. dropp the clutch at 3/4 grand and then as momentum build slowly increase the amount of throttle you have on. the tyres your running also plays a major part in the amount of throttle you can feed and how quickly.

Hope this helps.

on the subject of tyre pressures, i agree that letting pressure down helps in most cases, as it allows more sidewall flex, which leads to a bit more squat, which leads to a greater footprint and more traction, but what about on a 19inch tyre, where you have very little profile and little sidewall?? Has anyone dragged at the strip on 19's?? Id like to get out there soon, but only have 19's here, stockies still back in S.A.

Just to add my 2 cents.

My R32 GTR is running a T78 33D turbo with Trust engine internals and a Apex triple plate clutch.

I recently raced my car at the WSID which is a very impressive venue.

If people aren't familiar what big single turbos are like, they come on boost approx 5,000 rpm which can make things very trick when trying to get a good start while keeping it on boost and also preventing huge wheel spin at all 4's.

Anyway, it took my 3 runs to get the launch right, and still there is room for improvement.

Basically, the first couple of launches bogged down to much because I didn't slip the clutch enough.

I first launched at 7,000rpm, slipped it for approx 1 sec. I think I was near the 60ft mark by the time I was totally off the clutch. The turbo was just out of boost which made the car bog down and loose lots of time.

So the next run I brought the rev's up to 8,000rpm, brought the clutch out till I could feel it grab, down with the throttle while bring out the clutch till it grabbed enough to move the car but enough slip to keep the turbo on boost.

Once I heard the wastegate crack open I let the clutch out all the way and just control throttle till I was off and away.

I was running low boost 1.2 bar which produces 250kw @ 4's (Croydon dyno readings) My best time was 12.4 @ 177 km/h with a 1.8 60ft. I was shifting at 9,000 rpm, crossing the line in 3rd gear. I found I lost time shifting into 4th. I forgot to mention, I was also running on 19" rims too. Tire pressure was not touched. I believe the pressure was 45 psi in all 4's.

My car makes approx 440kw @ 4's on high boost which I haven't racing yet but will soon.

I'll keep you posted.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...