Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys looking at purchasing a r34 gtr that has been freshly imported

the importer is called Mo and from Park Orchards, Melbourne

the r34 was imported as 3.5a with front quarter damage, however noticed the whole front of car is painted and both front quarter panels have been taken off

there seems to be acid rain on the roof and spoiler is slightly faded, rust is started to form from middle brake light.

says 94xxx km and last service record was at 85k in 2008

car went really well though, catback and boost and was very impressed with the power

its on carsales,

opinions/thoughts

cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369212-anyone-dealt-with-this-importer/
Share on other sites

wrong part of the forum, there is an importing car section.

just my 2c

wow I think i just graduated to old school SAU forum nerd.

oh and i hope its going VERY cheap with all that panel damage~!

be careful with GT-R and prior damage

specially thing's like underlining rust or body damage

remember any seller will always hide as much as they can to sell the car and only tell you the bare minimum... so what you see and hear is not always the full story.

i hope your getting it for a very very cheap price mate

also 94KM fake or not, means you need to do 100,000KM service, so add around 1000 to the price or ask them reduce that much

by the way... how are the condition of the

- seat belts

- Steering wheel

- Padels, footrest

- gear stick, boot surround

- overall fading on plastics...

guess you can always take it to Racepace or some reputed place for a check...

my trusty mechanic allsparks will check it. the steering wheel gearknob pedals and seatbelts are in perfect conditio

n. he did say was only one front panel but i

noticed both panels have been replaced.. but how cheap is a good price for it? the car looks good. the whole front has been sprayed. and is an 01 with black interior. and silver compliance plate is that a vspec 2?

my trusty mechanic allsparks will check it. the steering wheel gearknob pedals and seatbelts are in perfect conditio

n. he did say was only one front panel but i

noticed both panels have been replaced.. but how cheap is a good price for it? the car looks good. the whole front has been sprayed. and is an 01 with black interior. and silver compliance plate is that a vspec 2?

2001 model what colour

as with any R34 GTR ... BB , Black is more expensive than White which tern is more expensive than Silver..... exotic colours like MP are even more expensive

also got to do with it its a Normal GT-R, V-Spec or V-Spec 2, M-Spec.... etc...

V-Spec 2 will have

1. NACA duct on the bonnet plus the foot pedals are silver engraved and not rubber

but only sure way to tell is get the VIN number and check it using Nissan Fast software.. put a request on the below tread on here

Link - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/page__pid__5886000__st__2680#entry5886000

i did get it checked at only said GTR.. not GTR/V2 which i thought it was a vspec 2 as it has alimimuim pedals, that centre console is diff. white indicators. front lower diffuser but doesnt have the bonnet and rear diffuser. and doesnt have the extra 2 sensors

i did get it checked at only said GTR.. not GTR/V2 which i thought it was a vspec 2 as it has alimimuim pedals, that centre console is diff. white indicators. front lower diffuser but doesnt have the bonnet and rear diffuser. and doesnt have the extra 2 sensors

there you go then.... Nissan FAST can not lie, it recorded with what the car came rolling off the factory floor.... so that car is a standard GTR with V-Spec 2 pedals and 2000 model update interior..."silver center console and black interior"

someone has put front diffuser... which is just plastic composite any way...

for even to be a V-Spec it needs to have (extra 2 sensors, Rear Carbon diffuser, Active LSD, etc) and it should come up as V/Spec in Nissan Fast

Now that you know this... you can bargain saying it 2001 R34 GT-R standard... if you'r mechanic says chassis rails are not bent and engine is in good condition "compression / leak down test"

then given you can bargain based on the above factors.. then decision is up to you..

Keep in mind you can import pretty good one for around 43K mark landed and on road, if you'r patient

got my one - V-Spec, No Accident damage,2000, Black, 65,000KM for 43K Landed... but have to play the waiting game to get at that price for about 3 months...

Broker wasJ-Spec

got it end of last year

thanks mate im very appreciative if your indepth responce.. now im kind of turned off this car. thing is he's selling it as a standard gtr but i was told its a vspec2 and he doesnt know it which i got excited. but a bit of research myself has informed there are standard gtrs with vspec2 items. i will ONLY buy a vspec. 99-02 doesnt phase me but i like the black interior. you got yours at an excellent price man well done

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...