Jump to content
SAU Community

Honda Prelude VTI-R ATTS For Sale-Modified

GT1

By GT1,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

GT1 Collaborator

GT1

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I am selling my Honda Prelude, i have recently bought a house and need the extra money.

-1997 Honda Prelude Vti-R ATTS (Active Torque Transfer System-LSD)

-White

-90,000Km

-Photo's can be e-mailed if you are interested

-Located in Sydney

The car has the following modifications:

Full factory Honda body kit(including wing on bonnet, very rare)

AEM adjustable cam gears

AEM light weight pulley kit

Neuspeed short shifter

Neuspeed sport springs (1.7" drop)

OBX 4-2-1 stainless steel extractors

Stainless steel dual tip rear muffler (no exhaust drone at all)

Magnecor KV85 ignition leads(made in U.S.A not Aust.)

JUN ultra light weight flywheel (5kg, factory flywheel is 10kg!)

Daikin sports clutch (not brass button)

Falken Azenis ST-115 tyres on the front

The car has been dynoed to tune the adjustable cam gears and makes 108Kw at the wheels. I have the dyno sheet for proof. It was tuned by Croydon Racing in Silverwater, so you’re guaranteed the car has been tuned perfectly. It is an ATTS model so it has an active LSD unlike a standard prelude. This is a fast car for what it is and is very nice to drive.

I have spent a lot of money on the car (parts & labour) most of these parts where imported by me from the U.S.A and a very expensive. All parts were professionally fitted.

I am looking for offers above $24,000.(will now consider offers over $22,000) If you are SERIOUS call me and will discuss the price.

This car is much cheaper to insure than a turbo car. For any of you younger drivers out there wanting to buy a good performance car with out the 'turbo' insurance premium you may want to consider this car.

If you would like to ask any questions or arrange to see the car, e-mail me or you can call me on 0431 064 288.

Thanks.

e-mail address [email protected]

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

This is an immaculate, car, ive been in it plenty of times, whoever buys it will be a very happy person :)

And although we are used to figures like 160+rwkw on this forum, trust me, although this car has comparably less, it still goes very well, its a lighter car.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Lepperfish Mentor

Lepperfish

Posted
Posted

Very nice prelude, 108kw at the wheels huh. SO your saying that it would keep up with, or be infront of an Integra typeR ?

Throw some nice rims on it and it would be even better. Good luck with the sale..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iamhe77
      Might import a stagea

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • iamhe77
      Stagea identification?

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...