Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from my memory of taking out my old steering rack, it was pretty simple.

i highly reccomend using a hoist for this as its just so much more easier.

12 mm bolts using i think it was U clamps for holding it in place

undo the fluid lines *make sure to have something to catch the liquid in, the bigger the better*

undo the spline to the steering wheel, *key tip is to have steering wheel straight b4 starting this, makes it much easier, unless you have a bosskit etc then it doesnt matter so much*

undo the nuts for the tie end rods where the knuckle joint is.

then make sure the spline comes off the steering wheel shaft then remove with some jimmying and twisting oh and patience.

if u look at the spline there is a groove so it only fits in a certain way. *i made this mistake when i put it it b4 checking and was fartarsing around untill i found out why*

then basically do the reverse.

spline back on the steering wheel shaft.

lines back in.

all bolted up.

double check everything.

top up with correct fluid.

start car and turn steering wheel lock to lock to bleed system and top up if required.

double check for leaks.

take car for a little drive to find the middle, and adjust if necessary if you have a boss kit.

a re-alignment is highly recommended.

this is all i can remember and i hope it helps, and if i have said something wrong or missed something someone please correct me.

cheers aaron

from my memory of taking out my old steering rack, it was pretty simple.

i highly reccomend using a hoist for this as its just so much more easier.

12 mm bolts using i think it was U clamps for holding it in place

undo the fluid lines *make sure to have something to catch the liquid in, the bigger the better*

undo the spline to the steering wheel, *key tip is to have steering wheel straight b4 starting this, makes it much easier, unless you have a bosskit etc then it doesnt matter so much*

undo the nuts for the tie end rods where the knuckle joint is.

then make sure the spline comes off the steering wheel shaft then remove with some jimmying and twisting oh and patience.

if u look at the spline there is a groove so it only fits in a certain way. *i made this mistake when i put it it b4 checking and was fartarsing around untill i found out why*

then basically do the reverse.

spline back on the steering wheel shaft.

lines back in.

all bolted up.

double check everything.

top up with correct fluid.

start car and turn steering wheel lock to lock to bleed system and top up if required.

double check for leaks.

take car for a little drive to find the middle, and adjust if necessary if you have a boss kit.

a re-alignment is highly recommended.

this is all i can remember and i hope it helps, and if i have said something wrong or missed something someone please correct me.

cheers aaron

AS above but soak everything in wd40 or 5.56crc before even starting it.

  • 4 years later...

Thread revival, about to do this on my R34, old rack's been leaking for ages.

I've got an OEM replacement with around 80,000 kms on it.

I'm assuming the above instructions will be pretty much the same for an R34, can someone please confirm?

Can this be done on jack stands i.e. without a hoist?

Also is there anything else I should look at doing whilst the rack is out? What's the best way to check the condition of tie rod ends inner/outer?

I've got new rack bushes to go in with it.

Thanks guys!

Can be done on jackstands. Give all the bushes a look over while you are under there. If any of the boots are split its time to replace them. It's pretty straightforward, just time consuming. I recommend putting on beers and getting some mates over.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...