Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of my coil-packs is playing up and I need to find out which one it is without pulling each one out and replacing one by one.

The main reason is, it's on good behaviour 90% of the time and would probably disappear by the time I've taken them out to replace. It's this 10% that's annoying as the ECU detects a problem an reduces power output :) Until the car is restarted again.

Any ideas?

the way i did it was to have the engine on, with the coil cover off, then you just unplug each coil one at a time. if the engine starts to struggle, it's not that coil. then, swap over the suspected bad coil with a good one and redo the test. this is if your coil is completely buggered. if it's only happening 10% of the time i'm unsure of an easy method.

Yeah because it's only sort of buggered it makes it hard to find....If it was dead it would be a piece of piss to find. I'll pop the top off though...in the hope that she starts to run on 5, then I can jump out and try removing them.

It's annoying me the potential the car has when they are all running OK...then suddenly 'm back to average performance :)

I may try the old electronic ear on the engine, it should point out the troubled cyclinder when it *blubs*

I know how annoying intemittent faults are, They should either break for just keep working :( We have people in at work tryiing to get us to find intermittent faults, and there is nothing we can do unless it plays up for us.

Sumo

Decided to wire in parallel with the ignitor signal plug at the back of the engine....then when it does play up I can look to see which coil isn't drawing current...then I only have to remove the cover to take the little bastard out :(

This is real easy. sorry I hadn't seen your thread earlier.

1. Remove the cover to expose the coils

2. With engine running, look (the first word I learned) at night/in the dark.

You can quite distinctly make out the little blue arcs from the coils. RB coilpacks are gooood & strong

seems almost too simple, eh?

I've had issues with coil packs too. Turned out to be nothing more than moisture, but the symptoms aren't that obvious at a glance. Invest in a can of silicon spray, & some easy labour & they generally won't trouble you.

Good luck with it.

Ooops... forgot to mention if one looks noticeably more intense, it's very likely shorting from the plates due to moisture. I believe that many perfectly OK coil packs get tossed just because of this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
×
×
  • Create New...