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All items located in Campbelltown, Sydney

Stuff for sale:

Sr20 flywheel. Would need machining. I have 2 of these $60 each

Greddy type r bov -Big BOV for big boost $220

R33 fmic kit. Complete kit with 600x300x80 core, and all piping. $300

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330mm big brake kit suit S13/14/15/R32/33/34 etc. Comes with alloy hat vented disks, adapters and Z32 calipers. Calipers have been sitting for a while so i'd recommend a seal kit for them. Disks are in excellent condition. Pads not included - $650

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Silvia frp Vented bonnet. Dmax style. Unused. Still in white gelcoat

$450

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R34 smic $100

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Profec e01 Boost controller. Complete kit

$450

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Hks gauges x 4 - 60mm oil temp, oil pressure, water temp and boost. Including all sensors. Loom for Boost guage is missing

$450 for the 4

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Sr highmount manifold. Suit T3 flange turbo and 4 bolt wastegate flange. Never used. Bought from JustJap for $499. Identical to this one http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16654&cat=252&page=4

$330

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Buddy club P1 rims - 17x9 (+27) all round. Extremely light. Some small rash but nothing major. Tyres might be ok for skids. - $950

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Desmond Jap rims. 17x8, 17x9 (+35 all round). Good condition. Have 2 tyres on rear 255's. Good amount of dish $750

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Desmond Jap rims - 17x8 (+35) all round. Rough painted matt black. Would need a repaint. Nice dish though. One has a dent that needs to be knocked out. Exact same model as the ones above (Just not as good condition). $400 set

Various Greddy Electronic gauges - Exh Temp $150, Oil Pressure $120, Temp $120. All come with looms and sensors

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Tial wastegate - 38mm. Gate only. $185

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HKS 2835 minus exh housing. 52 trim. No shaft play. one exhaust blade is slightly bent so either needs to be re-profiled or balanced or something. $300

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    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
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