Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay guy's so I went back to the dyno at the weekend. Had no time to get a new wastegate spring. So I tried to put some pre-load on it. I had made a new MAF table for the Q45's and raised the airtemp correction value and also increase the warm water correction temp as the car never seems to get over 70deg and this seemed to solve the random problem of the car getting richer every run! My tuner then trimmed up the fuel some more (still running very safe) and did a few runs but still the boost was dropping off as the revs increased. In the end in a effort to try and get a representative run my tuner held half throttle to build the rpm up to around 5000rpm and then hit the throttle to try and get the boost to hold out for redline. Still no joy! Anyway. In the end I came away with 451bhp at the rear wheels. with the boost dropping off below 1.1bar! So would estimate at least another 10-15bhp if I could hold boost on the dyno. Annoying because it holds boost on the road fine!

Another graph and video below! I am pleased enough to call it a day now unless I have good reason to go back later! Essentially I am just chasing proof of a big number on the dyno!

FinalDyno1.jpg

FinalDyno2.jpg

FinalDyno4.jpg

FinalDyno3.jpg

The whacky graph is from where we tried slamming the throttle at the end of the run!

A quick little video clip too.. Not that great. But hey!

th_Dyno2.jpg

Edited by leeroy_25
  • 2 weeks later...

Seems like you have a bit of a flow issue

Bigger, thicker intercooler and exhaust will open it up and get you more power.

The difference in my car with just a proper front mount was incredible. Open up that exhaust, 3" or bigger and remove the cat.

How is your fuel pressure under boost? I had an issue, my fuel pressure dropped 10-15 psi from full boost as I climbed the rpm's. Resided the pump to the battery and it solved the problem. Also scrapped the 60mm eBay wastefate for a turbosmart 60mm and that made the world of difference. I run a holder hx40, stock rb25 and bolt ons and made 492 at the rear wheels at 19.5 psi. Your set up with a few changes (fmic, exhaust, fpr) is all you need in my opinion. My first tune was 474 rwhp and with the fuel pump wired to the battery and new wastegate it did 492 rwhp and boost came on 300 rpm quicker.

  • 3 months later...

Hi There,

Only just seen this reply!

Tanks for the feedback.. I would agree with you I have some kind of flow issue! Strange how it holds boost fine on the road but not on the dyno is the weird thing? I can only assume it is the lack of airflow in the dyno cell?

I am running a stock intercooler and may well look for a larger one in due course. For now I redid the exhaust and put a stiffer wastegate spring in and went back for another run. Gained 1 bhp top end! But was still getting the same boost drop and also wheel spin problems. I did make quite a big gain in the low down power and torque though which was nice 30ftlbs of torque and I think similar in the power. My cams are set to maximise low down power and torque and not top end so I guess it depends how you set yours as to the power difference? in our setup? You also mentioned fuelling.. As I am I don't think I can support much more power as the duty hits 90's top end.. not sure if that is pump not keep up or the 600cc injectors are too small? I don't have a FPR/gauge inline to check at present.

You say you are running an old HX40?? As in an H1E? What size turbine housing is it? What rpm do you hit full boost out of interest and what are you rev limited to? interested to know someone else experiences with a holset!

I ended up setting my boost to 1.3bar.. (18.8psi). I didn't fancy going any higher especially as I cannot hold that on the dyno to map the top end properly!

when you say it holds boost on the street, are you running 4th gear to the rev limit same as the dyno? or is it in a lower gear, cause in a lower gear the engine isn't loaded up as much so it isn't sucking the same air.

which stock intercooler do you have, because all 3 GTR intercoolers are different with the 32 one being best for flow but not for cooling,if it is a 33 intercooler ( which i have one here ) I would start there next and make sure it isn't the issue, cause if it is a resriction then it could be lifting the intake pressure to the intercooler higher to get the pressure at where the reading for EBC coming from to 18psi which would increase intake temp aswell as add back pressure to the exhaust manifold.

I have seen these intercoolers make close to this power on a 2.6 but the 3ltr might use more air, also what comp ratio do you have

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...