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25mm 5 stud bolt on spacers pair(nissan)

brand new with nuts

$110

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15mm 5 stud bolt on spacers pair (nissan)

brand new with nuts

$100

5mm slip on spacers

$20/pair

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s13 reinforcement bar

$100

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r33 weathershields

$70

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s13 rear bar with reo.

$100

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4ze1 rodeo gearbox

4wd

can be used in rodeo or gemini

$200

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RB20 bare motor

$500ono

in good nick

4-5 stud converter spacers

$350/ set of 4

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sr20det power fc

s13 sr20

$900ono

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weds sa90

17x 9/8 +35

$1000ono

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r32 4 door rear pods

$150

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s14 s1 tail lights

$100

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r33 full brake/rotor setup

5 stud conversion less front knuckles

handbrake cables, brakes, rotors, drums ect.

$800

4-5 stud spacers:

brand new, 4x114.3 hubs to 5x114.3 wheels.

66.1mm internal bore (nissan hubs)

71.1 hub centric ring, suit aftermarket wheels.

4 studs are relocated, require longer wheel stud for the 5th stud. (autobarn provide them at 3.80 a stud from memory)

come with wheel nut key

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    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
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    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
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