Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have changed the size of my rims and I have a near brand new set of 4 Nitto NT05 tires. They are 265/35/R18. These were purchased recently at Taleb tires for $1076 (I have the receipt).

They have the following characteristics:

- Performance Rating: W

- UTQG Treadwear: 200

- Traction: AA

- Temperature: A

Heres what Nitto have to say "...The NT05 is a maximum performance tire that was developed using advanced computer simulation and extensive on-track testing. These development methods along with rigorous quality standards helped produce a street tire that provides precise and responsive handling and performance..."

I have decided to change the size of my GTR Rims and am upsizing.

These tires have a maximum of 1500km's on them, very minimal wear, exceptional grip in the dry and wet.

One tire has had a nail puncture, but has been professionally patch repaired and does not leak.

Priced for a quick sale, yours for $500 firm.

Located in West Sydney

Craig

0424854025

post-81997-0-03607000-1310711994_thumb.jpg

post-81997-0-02667900-1310712024_thumb.jpg

post-81997-0-74299200-1310712044_thumb.jpg

post-81997-0-52381400-1310712065_thumb.jpg

The tyres aren't far from brand new. The NT05's have a wierd tread pattern. Take a look at the side tread, they are about 95%. your more than welcome to take a look at them.

Mate I'm out in the city, I replied to your SMS I still have them, they are almost brand new. They are a different tread pattern, they look low on tread but they are fashioned mire like slicks, the centre of the tyres don't have tread. You can tell by the outer tread, both sides aren't even worn.

I'm on my iPhone ATM and I can't attach pics but if you go to The Nitto website you can check out the centre tread markers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...