Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a say.. 'pulsing vibration' in the pedal until the clutch is disengaged

(moving the pedal in and out you can feel it both ways)

and a ticker/rattle from the box that tends to come and go at times, more noticeable when its cold and goes away more when warm.

Does someone know what these mean?

thankkss.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371250-clutch-problem/
Share on other sites

I have a say.. 'pulsing vibration' in the pedal until the clutch is disengaged

(moving the pedal in and out you can feel it both ways)

and a ticker/rattle from the box that tends to come and go at times, more noticeable when its cold and goes away more when warm.

Does someone know what these mean?

thankkss.

Is the pulsing vibration there when the engine is stopped as well as running or just one or the other?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371250-clutch-problem/#findComment-5917990
Share on other sites

It is likely that you either have a broken spring in the clutch plate or diaphram. If the fingers of the clutch cover are uneven, then as the clutch rotates it will be moving the release bearing over the high/low spot on the fingers and hydraulic pulse the slave cylinder up to the master and through the pedal as the recovery port is blocked when the pedal is depressed.

I would check the usual stuff like pivots and slave cylinder first but I'm pretty sure your gearbox is going to need to come out :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371250-clutch-problem/#findComment-5918581
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

rather than start a new topic i figure id post here. i have the same problem in my r34, its not bad but just enough to annoy me. i replaced the standard clutch with an npc recently so hoping its not a broken spring, but the input shaft did have 0.8mm of lateral movement due to a worn input shaft bearing i believe. is it possible that the movement of the input shaft is causing my vibration, or is it still likely to be something in the clutch broken??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371250-clutch-problem/#findComment-6264628
Share on other sites

rather than start a new topic i figure id post here. i have the same problem in my r34, its not bad but just enough to annoy me. i replaced the standard clutch with an npc recently so hoping its not a broken spring, but the input shaft did have 0.8mm of lateral movement due to a worn input shaft bearing i believe. is it possible that the movement of the input shaft is causing my vibration, or is it still likely to be something in the clutch broken??

did you machine the flywheel?

dont always jump to something major broke.

try thinking of more simple explanations.

if the flywheel was machined, then start looking at the dampening springs in the clutch plate, and go from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371250-clutch-problem/#findComment-6265262
Share on other sites

yea i did machine the flywheel, ive got an npc heavy duty organic, so im assuming it has stiffer springs?? and that you would feel more vibration over softer springs right? (i know its trivial, but it makes sense in my head :P) i was really just wondering if the play in the input shaft would be causing my vibration. same idea as the broken spring that as it rotates it causes pluses through the slave which you'd feel in the pedal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371250-clutch-problem/#findComment-6265481
Share on other sites

ive got a spigot bush, but i replaced that as well. also new thrust bearing that came with the clutch. ive also got vibration in the gear lever that i assumed was from the input shaft bearing, hence why i thought it might also be causing the vibration in the clutch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/371250-clutch-problem/#findComment-6265833
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...