Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i wouldnt bother with water/meth if your running e85 as 99% of the time you reach MBT before any knock with e85. you might get some small gains from reduced temp but its nothing that couldnt be gained by simply running more boost with e85

This is a good answer I've lifted from the aquamist site explaining the cooling effect:

For more info please visit: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1832

Originally Posted by Richard L

The following charts are calculated based on:

10Kg of air, Gasoline's latent heat capacity of 350KJ/Kg

Water's latent heat capacity of 2256KJ/Kg

Methanol's latent heat capacity of 1109KJ/Kg

Injection water at different ratio to fuel at 100% water and 75% Water/25% Methanol. You can see the at 100% water injection, only 3% of w/f fuel ratio is enough to replace 2.5 point of a/f ratio (dotted line). As soon as 25% of Methanol is added, the a/f ratio is dropprd to 12.0 - loosing some cooling capacity

ScreenHunter_8.jpg

Each of the following chart show a 25% percent increase in Methanol concentration of the mix.

ScreenHunter_9.jpg

ScreenHunter_10.jpg

ScreenHunter_11.jpg

lastly, just methanol is added and no water. The chart on the right is 100% water

ScreenHunter_12.jpg

The two charts show (first and last) that you will require to inject twice the amount of methanol to equal the latent heat of water alone. Methanol is relatively low cost and very effective as a coolant so what is the problem?

When higher concentration of methanol is injected, you need to lean your engines a/f ratio to accommodate the extra fuel or your engine will bog down and loose power. Consequentially - one runs the risk of putting the engine into heat stress if the supply of methanol is suddenly interrupted. Injecting water does not affect the a/f ratio. It appears that 50/50 mix has the best of both worlds.

In either cases, having a good w/a injection system with reliable "system fault" diagnostic capability is essential especially if you are running a high concentration of Methanol.

__________________

Richard L

aquamist technical support

Yes, they say there is little benefit from running E85 and WMI, NOS and propane shots seem to be the next step.

The other alternative is to run straight methanol, you lose some of the cooling effect, but gain substantially in octane numbers and power delivery. But, like all such volatile fuels the danger limits are much higher as well. Melting pistons and methanol fires, and propane explosions are mentioned. However most seem to run with either 75/25 or 50/50, methanol when mixed in these ratio's is pretty much inert. Your gasoline tank is more of a danger than a 75/25 or 50/50 mixture.

water absorbs more heat but methanol increases overall octane by a fair bit. so with straight water you have max cooling but no octane boost, with straight methanol you have a big octane boost with a bit of cooling and a few hazards. 50/50 gives the best of both and is inert, so no danger at all.

water absorbs more heat but methanol increases overall octane by a fair bit. so with straight water you have max cooling but no octane boost, with straight methanol you have a big octane boost with a bit of cooling and a few hazards. 50/50 gives the best of both and is inert, so no danger at all.

:stupid: and not so stupid at all!!!

The other advantage over e85 is that you carry WMI with you, and E85 is only in the metro areas. So if you want to go from say Melbourne to Broken Hill or Alice Springs or even Brisbane then you will not find e85 except at Sydney and then you have to look for it.

Based on my driving, I'd get 6,000km out of my 4 quart = 2.8 litre tank.

And if your stuck then you can use certain types of windscreen washer fluid, those that are 70% methanol and 30% other stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...